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Sort those bricks and pointing out! Ta-da.

Find out the size and depth of the drains and whether they are your responsibility (lateral drains) or the water company's (public drain/ sewer) or even the neighbours lateral drains with an easement over your land. You will need the water company's permission if public drains/sewers, so check...

Often, the batten spacing is out, so the roof halves are separated to prevent the new work looking crap.

Use a grinder

Yes, are describing a standard pad and beam foundation, which is used for certain building types. It would need to be properly designed and proven by calculation to be acceptable to building control. But the issue is why would you want to do this? It will involve more risk from movement and...

You are missing the point. You can fill a gap around a window with ice cream in February and it will work. But it won't work in May. Do you still point up around floor joists with mortar?

We'll make an engineer of you yet!

Yes, there is clear guidance on the pre-installation inspection and checks under the BBA or similar approval certification (required under Building Regulations), together with the manufacturer's own requirements for installation. Things like location, exposure, narrow cavity, clear cavity...

It's a gap filling product, and is not something that would be specified for draught proofing. Something to do with the air voids within it, the inconsistent volume and lack of flexibility. True it's a bodger's dream, but it does not create miracles.

Get it assessed, it may require partial rebuilding not just repointing and a few bricks replaced. And the assessment should ideally not be by someone who may want to do the work and charge you handsomely for the privilege. Again ideally, if an independent professional report can classify this...

The obvious solution is to fit a humidity controlled extractor fan or a cooker hood that extracts to external. Either must be suitably selected and used, and for a fan, located appropriately - not just thrown in where is most easiest for the electrician. Boarding the wall is a second option if...

What insurance responsibilities?

Yes you can look around the neighbourhood and spot the cheapskates. There is no other reason people chose a different tile. But the conundrum is, do you select a tile to match the neighbours in the hope that they then do the same in a few years when it's their turn to replace? Also contrary...

Moisture resistant plasterboard is a waste of time in this situation. You're better off fitting foil backed plasterboard as a means of controlling vapour entering the cold roof void. Adding quilt insulation above will prevent condensation and pattern staining to the finished ceiling.

Strictly it's a warranty not a guarantee, so there are legal differences, and you should regard it as being defect based, not outcome based. So the warranty covers issues related to the installation [operation] and not the suitably or performance of the product.

Leave the internal timber lintel if it's sound, just point and gap fill. Fit something like and IG L10 or Catnic ANG lintel to the external leaf only, not angle iron - which will rust. You'll need to either lift the lintel and fit a knock on to the top of any new frame, or give some thought...

Expanding foam is not really a draught sealant, but can be used as a packer before sealing with a flexible mastic or caulk. Or foam EPDm/neoprene strips as packing.

The clarification is there to see. 3rd page, 3/4 down https://www.labcwarranty.co.uk/hubfs/Blog/Blog%20PDFs/labcw-tech-update-roof-tiling-and-underlays-the-new-bs5534-standards.pdf Or see BS 5534:2014 + A2:2018

Get the lead flashing looked at