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If they’re not being used, and are just ‘things to hit’ with your car etc, is it worth just removing them ?

TBH, if you’ve been puting up with the staining for 19 years without a puting a sealer on, I think it’s probably time for a re-grout.

Personally, I think it looks very neat and you’ve done a good job. I’d be reluctant to put any kind of strip on it. Just get a new piece of vinyl the right size ?

Datsun 180b Bluebird.

I use glyphosate on the bits of my garden where there are weeds and growth to absorb it. I dissolve a bag of salt in a pan and put that down where there’s nothing to ‘ hit’ e.g. my drive and path, to stop them appearing in the first place. Have to be careful of where it runs off to though, as...

Pardon me for being thick:- are we discussing a cupboard construction for a wall in a garage that hasn’t been built yet ?

Bins

Agree with posts above re ‘Decathlon’. Me and the Mrs both got our sea swimming masks there - these days they’re just oversized goggles; they don’t have the built in noses in them.

I’ll stick to my 20mm notch and Tile Adhesive. If the floor across the size of a tray is more than 5mm out, i’d be fixing the floor.

A small 125mm grinder is all you need. Handy tip :- When you come to drilling all those holes for hanging all the bits and bobs, use these …. https://amzn.eu/d/0dNqm5Kt ( 6mm std Spade/Arrowhead drill bits. £9 for 10 ) You’ll only get 1, maybe 2 holes per drill, but they do get through...

As ‘blup’ above. Personally I would highly recommend the “Rubi” blades.

As ‘blip’ was hinting at, your 850 seems awfy high. The ‘standard’ from worktop to cabinet is usually around 450mm. Do you mean the Extractor cabinet ? Anyway, as ‘blup’ says - worktop, then upstand on, then Splashback sits on top of upstand. The ‘join/seam’ is usually under the...

+1 for ‘opps’ ideas above. After sanding, you could add neat SBR, to RapidSet adhesive and a couple of handfuls of sand to make a fast drying rough slurry that you paint on first. Warning - it’s messy and any tools used go in the bin !

Can you fit the worktop, then put a sheet of plasterboard on the wall above it ? If not, a competent tiler would get most half decent tiles ( not chamfered) to bridge a 1cm gap, including a silicone bead along the join to worktop. (Usually done by bridging the gap with the cardboard off the...

Your layout is correct. Those tiles do not need changed. Whilst not everyone’s personal choice of colour, it should be respected:- to suggest painting tiles halfway through a job is just ludicrous. As is suggesting getting the sockets to land on white tiles :- we have no idea how many...

It depends on how your tiles fit into the length of that untiled wall going left. It could be you start in the middle of that wall, ( which is normal) so that the two ends are the same size of tile. So, we don’t know the size of that tile going into the corner, but it’s deffo red. Then the rest...

You’re o.k. That left hand column just gets treated as a ‘ stand alone block’, and you’ve continued the front and sides of it to make the same ‘brick’. It just looks odd with the two colours, but it’s right.

Ignore the shower tray, that’s irrelevant- the wall is the wall P.s. I presume the centre of the widow ties in with toilet/ flush centres?

Without knowing how far the centre of the toilet flush differs from the true centre of the wall, it’s hard to say. I’d probably go the join down the centre of the flush.

And to top it all, you run the risk of poisoning and killing the bird’s with the chemical bonding you’re considering.