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Got teenage son who, despite, umpteen warnings is still inclined to spend ages in the shower and use all the hot water. As you can tell, we've got a hot water tank rather than combi boiler. Tank is in airing cupboard next to bathroom. Would there be a cut-off from the pipes into the shower...

Indeed. And that now seems like the best plan.....

Wall one side, low wall other side (then open). So windows on the one side, replace existing post/corner, door, and infill piece. Quoted £3100 which I think is a bit high?

One other thing I was thinking of. The nest thermo has a battery doesnt it? How long does it last if not powered and does it warn you? Wondering if I could additionally power it using a battery pack (like the one for phones). Would imagine the draw is small so it would last a while. Trying to...

Yes similar to me. Heatlink has replaced the original timer (in the kitchen). Nest thermo is currently sitting in living room USB powered. Old thermostat is still there above it (set to high to allow nest to do its stuff - I noticed if I set it low it stops nest raising the temparature). So yes...

Yes I meant thermostat.

OK so I've got an existing three wire thermostat. Nest docs are a bit unclear - can I use these wires to power nest?

Thanks. Yes I understand. Noticed if I set the exisiting low it overrides nest - as it should. Was hoping I could just use existing power but I guess not. Not possible to run wire from heatlink to nest thermostat - too far.

OK Heatlink and nest installed and working. Ended up replacing the timer with heatlink. Nest thermo is usb connected at the moment. Original dial thermo is still there too. I guess I need to remove this. Can I power nest thermo from this - I note is 12v only though. What about the other wires...

Thanks Stem. Yes neighbour has exactly the same setup - new housing estate. Yeh I understand how the heatlink works and I thought, as you confirmed that you can just replace the existing timer with heatlink. I just dont understand why my neighbour says you need to leave the original programmer...

Yes it seems I have both. To clarify, neighbour has installed heatlinke directly to boiler, and left existing timer there (but left it on constantly on to let nest control things). Hes hot same set up as me - new houses! OK, so at the moment, wires go from boiler to timer to thermostat. Still...

Ah yes I think he had nest 2. But he seems convinced it needs to be conencted directly or you cant control hot water. Yes I have hot water cylinde (in airing cupboard), cylinder thermostat - dunno what does it look like?, motorised valves - think so I'll check.

Sorry for the delay..... I've got an ideal classic FF350 boiler, drayton L112 timer, and honeywell T6360 room thermostat. Neighbour fitted his (same setup) and fitted the heatlink directly to the boiler. And left timer there set to permanently on. Said you could not replace the timer because...

I have a boiler, timer and room thermostat. At the moment, timer is used to set times for both heating and hot water. Thermostat in living room is for temp (obviously). Whats best way to install NEST in this setup. Do I replace the timer with the heatlink and the thermostat with the nest...

Yep it is Billy bookcase with oak veneer. Was just going to create a new hole for the dowel, not bother with the screw bit and instead use screw through from the outside. Due to wall you wont see it anyway.

Now that would be easier. Local B&Q has got a big saw. Used them in the past for wood bought there (free). Would they do for wood I brought to them? For a charge obviously.

Good advice! :-)

Yes aware of the problem with the veneer. I'll try the masking tape idea. More concerned about getting a straight cut. But the clamp together idea sounds good. The back panel goes into grooves so rough edge isnt going to matter. To be honest, it is what it is. Its not going to be perfect but...

My first mistake was letting my wife measure the gap. 2nd mistake was buying it and putting it together without checking. So, got a 80cm wide bookcase to go into a 75cm gap.... I've managed to dismantle it and also get the back off (Without too much damage). My plan is to 5cm or so off the end...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Howsar-350-Quick-Lock/dp/B000RJS3AS Drill hole through and padlock to stop it being removed?