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Thanks. There is a potential problem area where the bay windows were removed and a timber frame with plywood put in to make the elevation flat. The different expansion rates of the timber vs brick has caused vertical cracking. I’m told that fibreglass mesh will help with that. I did think...

Hello, would appreciate your thoughts. My house is 1920s with a roughcast render. At some point bay windows were taken out on the front elevation and the render is a patchwork of finishes. I'd like to get the lot re-done so have spoken to a couple of renderers. One said silicone render 'all...

Thanks. Most of the reviews talked about chipboard, so I wasn't sure. Is it any Spax or a specific one?

Hello. Am looking for a steer on the screws I'll need for replacing old 19mm square-edge pine floorboards onto the joists. The boards are going to be sanded so will need to be 2-3mm countersunk. I'd quite like small heads but not at the expense of them pulling through. I started with some...

Thanks for the replies. I’ve since read that Open Therm would be overridden when it comes to maintaining the hot water temperature in the cylinder. All of this is beyond me. I’m drawn to Wiser because it’s 3 channel (2 zones and HW) it still seems to work in the app when the internet is down...

Thanks. I’ve somehow gone down a rabbit hole and also got stuck in the headlights. Apparently Open Therm is at odds with the high temperature needed for an indirect cylinder - Legionnaire’s consideration. Do you have an indirect cylinder on yours?

Thanks. I was moving away from that as it's not Open Therm - my understanding is that without OT the boiler is on/off, like stop/start in traffic jams whereas OT allows slow steady movement of traffic/boiler modulation. But what do I know!

Commenting on my own question here: Don't know if Chat GPT knows best but it's recommending Heatmiser Open Therm bundle for superior boiler modulation and system optimisation, but as an alternative Drayton Wiser 3 channel kit as an excellent compromise and best for adding smart TRVs down the...

So the installer has said I’m good to go with adding an indirect unvented hot water cylinder to the combi boiler and has asked what brand of control do I want. Three floors, 18 radiators. The pipe layout makes for one zone downstairs and the other two floors on a second. The back of the...

Thanks for the replies. So there’s no point in, say, a second combi boiler to feed two showers. That wouldn’t make a difference as the mains flow in is the problem?

Hello With the addition of a couple of showers, I’m looking at getting an indirect unvented hot water cylinder in addition to the 35kW combi boiler. (When finished there’ll be a bath, 4 showers and 19 rads/23kW). The plan was to keep the bath on the combi and run the showers off the cylinder...

Thanks. I’ve asked the builder to try drilling down through the RSJ, my gut was telling me the original idea was asking for trouble.

Thanks. I think I need a cobalt drill for steels so will have to get one big enough. It looks close to the backbone of the RSJ so if I can’t, which would be the best alternative option?

Hello, hope you can help. While the en suite floor is up and in anticipation of a new kitchen next year I want to run an oven cable from the consumer unit to the kitchen below. My electrician will be connecting it but is happy for the builder to run it. The problem is that there’s an RSJ...

Just looking online, a double oven was 5.9 KW, so two of those make 11.8. Add in an induction hob, say 7 kW. So we’re looking at 19kW. After diversity I think that translates to 32A plus another 5A for a switch. The cable will mostly cross the joists so won’t be clipped to them - does...

Thanks for the replies. My question was about the supply cable to the extension CU. It hasn’t been repurposed as there was nothing there before the extension. If that cable is big enough (and I think it’s been established that 6mm isn’t) to consider running a supply to change the ovens from...

It’s marked 1999 (which is when the extension was built). I just read imperial came in in 1970. Would they have run a 6mm cable to feed a kitchen and bedroom/en suite (which used to have an electric shower)? For two double ovens and an induction hob?

Thanks. It wasn’t an expensive vernier gauge but I calibrated it with something else and it was accurate. I think the main thing is that it’s looking like it’s not 6mm cable - the strand diameter, the lug and the overall dimension all suggest something bigger. Which at least means I can...

Would you mind explaining how you work that out and what it means? Thanks

So I finally got a vernier gauge which says a strand is 1.6mm. There are 7 strands.