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Drain the system and cylinder depending on whether it is a direct or indirect cylinder and cap pipes or plug the cylinder with 1" plugs. http://www.screwfix.com/p/brass-flanged-plug-1-pack-of-2/74007?kpid=74007&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product Listing Ads-_-Sales

Thanks all. This Picture was from Bristol.

What is the pipe going to the front wing ? That should enable the identification but i can't find anything similar.

Thanks Dave. I thought Edwardian pre 1st world war.

Anyone know the car as i want to try and date the photo ? thanks.

So Jedi's post has been edited and Steelmasons superb post has disappeared ?

Drain system and put two isolation valves on the pipes where they T off or cut them off completely using stop ends. Your way won't work.

Make a timber frame (screwed down) with ply on top then silicone the tray to the ply. The silicone around the tray will help but sling the legs if you are not happy.

If it is not an air lock then it could be the tap washer.

You could try doubling up the washer in the trap and or ptfe tape around the the chrome waste. Silicone inside the nut would also do the job but you would have to leave it to go off

White upvc fascia is easy to cut and quite flexi.If you run a knife down the back in the places you want to bend it should work. I have used it on a quadrant shower before.

Can't see the pic's very well but the months are about right for woodworm beetle but they don't normally grow to 10mm more like 5mm.

I see what you mean !

That has an air gap of at least 50mm.

Can you swap the trap for a double appliance trap and use one for W/M and one for overflow ...

If you don't want to remove the taps then silicone will do the job but removal would be the proper way to go.

If you can get 2ft of pipe to play with then clamp the end or hammer it flat and bend it over on itself a few times un til the water stops.You can then freeze the pipe before the flattened part then cut and put a fitting on.I used to have a lead pipe clamp that consisted of two pieces of metal...

You can get compression fittings for lead (or wipe a joint) but if you've damaged the pipe then it won't fit on.So clamp,freeze,cut it cleanly and put on a lead fitting to copper then a stop end.

It will need clamping and freezing.....get a plumber.

Depends who taught you then ? My foreman MANY years ago always told me hot on the inside and their are hundreds of baths plumbed in like that by me and my fellow plumbers on a huge new town build.Perhaps it's changed since the late 70's but this is the way i will stick to.