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That may be so, yes, though I have only seen 8x4 sheets

Putting rigid insulation on inner skin of block wall. How to fit it when there's brick ties sticking out? Inner is thermalite. Do I just push the boards so the ties poke through, or somehow fit them after? As I said, undoubtedly a thicky question.

Ta

When building a cavity wall in blockwork, does it matter on the relative positions of the perps in the inner and outer skins? That is, is either of these bonds preferable (or neither!)?

Man of few words. Thanks :)

In the process of thinking about removing our small conservatory and replacing with a larger single storey extension (built by me) Due to the ground levels, the connie floor level is 5 courses above the ground. I don't know yet how this was constructed....beam and block or just a mass pour...

Yes. Thanks. I looked on Catnic's site, and should've looked further afield before asking.! That said, I'd need one for a 100mm cavity, so those listed wouldn't help. I'll keep looking

Another query: My "design" for the extension includes a long run (3.8m) of windows and patio doors. I don't think a Catnic lintel comes in lengths bigger than 3.6m. Are there alternatives I should be looking at? Or will I need a brick pillar along the run somewhere?

Sounds so easy!

I figured some sort of lead work but to get it sloping back to front? Make a ply tray and angle that slightly?

What am I googling for to find the solution to this: Currently a gently sloping slate roof over a utility room and I'd like to build up off its wall to add an adjacent new roof to an extension (mock-up for illustration only): My query is what to do where the sloping slate meets the...

Yes, gable-end along the long axis

It has to fit UNDER an oddly-placed middle-landing window.

Just trying to design an extension that'll fit in our situation....the thickness of the finished roof is a very important factor in making it fit! The extension will be 4m across the back and project out 4.7m, with a simple apex roof along the 4.7m direction. It'll end up plaster boarded...

Respectfully, the whole place looks like a shabby mess, so presumably you're going to rip pretty much everything out and start again? That'll give you the chance to see what's down there and take remedial action then. Looks like a fun project!

Wont the new boards be a little, well, bouncy or, indeed, squidgy?

Next question: As we are replacing an older, smaller connie, is there any issue adding the new floor screed up to the edge of the old one? Should I be reinforcing that join in any way? Or should I be ripping out the old one and pouring a full-sized new screed?

Thanks for the guidance. I spoke to the BCO who made the point about an insulated roof meaning regs approval needed. The original plan was to attach to two existing walls, but now we'd like it to just one, hence my worry abut wind load. I'll look in more details at the kits.

...nor if attached to two walls that meet, presumably?

It would have an insulated "proper" roof, so regs would apply, it seems. Still a DIY job if I don't need steel frames etc first.