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I agree the outside level looks like it's been raised slightly. However i don't think that's what's causing the ingress. There is a DPC sandwiched between the threshold and the top of the bricks, it forms the straight edge in the last pic. I do need to double check the weep vents on the door...

hmmm i did a test with the hose. Pointing it at the threshold for a bit didn't result in anything coming through after about 10mins. But when i sprayed the side edges it eventually came gushing through. The leading edge on the inside gets wet first before it wicks back, so i don't think it's the...

Cheers Wayners. I tried shielding it from the rain a few days ago when it was driving against it and it didn't seem to make much difference. Thinking about how it's entering i think it might be poor sealant down the sides. The door is a bit of a mess and i expect it wasn't fitted properly to...

Hi, apologies if i'm not using the correct terminology here. I'm not really sure what to do so grateful for any pointers. I have an old house in need of renovation, solid walls and suspended timber floor. There's a uPVC double door onto the patio, where water seems to be coming in - but from...

Hi all, Sorry if this isn't the right place! I've got an old lath and plaster ceiling in a soon-to-be bathroom that needs to come down. I was planning on just boarding it with moisture resistant plasterboard and getting it skimmed. However google led me to this thread from years ago...

Right you are, here's some more pics with the temporary air brick cover removed. Going in a bit further it seems like it was supported by this wood which has given way Top down inside view But what i don't get (along with lots of other things) is where was this wood supposed to dock into...

In the process of fixing something else what looks like the threshold beneath my patio doors caved in. On the front side of this is an air brick, which i think was badly damaged and so has been patched up with a temporary cover. So i suppose there are no bricks directly supporting the bit...

Thanks! That certainly sounds neater - but what about where the conduits stick out proud of the current wall surface. Or do you mean cover the whole wall so that it's flush with where that plywood is at the moment?

I've had the electricians in recently doing a full house rewire. I have been filling the other chases around the house gradually, but this one running into the main board has got me a bit stumped. It's a brick party wall, depth of about 40mm and 170mm wide. There isn't much play in any of the...

Ah sorry no worries i wasn't trying to pin it on you lol, more me being too lazy and ego-depleted to look around. In any case it's only the release bit that's broken so it's still going to be useful later. It's worked out a treat tbh even just cleaning up the old spade connectors on the old...

Just to close the loop on this I bought that Haisstronica one in the link through lack of imagination, with 6 different jaws on for different crimps. It worked a bit, but the release mechanism broke within about 20mins. Just long enough for me to realise that I didn't actually need to do...

Thanks very much everyone that's very helpful. It didn't occur to me that the dies are specific to the type of crimp, but now I type it aloud is sounds like common sense....doh. I think i'll need to do both insulated and non-insulated, as one end is spades going into a multi-terminal connector...

This is going to sound dafter than my usual questions. I bought these years ago, no instructions as far as I recall, and now i'm in a spot of automotive bother and need to use them in anger pronto. Pretty bog standard pair of ratcheting crimp tool. Let's call them side A,...showing the profile...

Magic, thank you!

Thanks both, yes I can't get through the links either it looks like they're sensibly blocked by the site, I've included the product codes though. I think that's what i'm worried about as the isolation valve has tapered edges. I haven't given the flexihose compression end a good enough look to...

Ah sorry, the first was just a standard 1/2"x15mm flexihose (s/fix 6768G). The second which i thought might fit but says needs soldering was the flomasta copper end feed equal couplers 15mm (s/fix 71343).

I haven't done any kind of plumbing before and sadly I couldn't prompt AI to give me something I believed, so this is going to sound stupid: I have a Pegler PB300T isolation valve fitted to supply, and have a flexihose with a 15mm compression fitting on the supply end (this one i think or...

Awesome, thanks again!

Ah gotcha, thanks for that John. On some of these pics I can't see any holes for fixing the cowl to the wall, do you just silicone them on? Or drill your own holes in the cowl? Apols, I did say I have next to no experience!

Thanks very much John. Silly question - so on the reverse of those cowls does it have a circular connection (that I guess would have to be slightly smaller than 125mm so that the flexible vent can slip over it)? Or do have to get the rigid circular bit separately to then plug into the cowl? Cheers