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I think in that case I'll stick to baths to be on the safe side!

It's barely been used over the years, only fairly recently did it start to be used more regularly.

Just a thought but given the uncertain nature of the fault is the shower safe to use? Is there any risk of the pump failing in such a way that I end up being doused in very hot water? The pump is over 20 years old, as are the controls in the shower - the latter consists of two round chromed...

Thanks all. Seems a shame to replace it if it's only the bearings but I guess the units aren't particularly serviceable? I do like to fix things where possible. Also, a replacement Stuart Turner (1.5 bar, the same as my failing unit) is £138 (plus whatever the plumber charges)...

I think I need a new shower pump - the 20 year old Showerforce Turbo 2 in my airing cupboard has been noisy for some time but now it's even noiser, and as of a few days ago a new noise (which sounds a bit like small pieces of gravel rotating in the unit!) has been added to the cacophony. It...

Thanks, but will it need re-treating?

One of my five bar wooden gates (not the slightly rotting one that I mentioned in another thread) is covered with a thin film of algae, as well as smaller patches of moss and lichen. I've removed most of these with warm water and a soft brush, although because I don't want to have to re-treat...

Thanks all for the very helpful advice, all duty noted.

Nice idea, thanks! Should I also re-treat the wood in any way to prevent further rot?

Not yet, I'll try and take some tomorrow.

The rot isn't yet bad but it is evident, but short of replacing the whole bar (it's a wide gate and that would be a major undertaking for me) is there anything that I could do to patch it up? Basically what's happening is that some areas are becoming a bit soft on the surface and splinters are...

Due to my location I endure relatively frequent power cuts which can last for hours, if not days. What is the best way to power my ONT and router in the event of a power failure lasting for at least 6 hours or more? This would primarily be for phone use and mainly to handle incoming calls from...

Thanks, makes you wonder what the difference is between that one on amazon and the following more expensive one: https://www.croydex.co.uk/product-220.html#:~:text=300mm%20Stainless%20Steel%20Straight%20Grab%20Bars%20with,use%20in%20'wet'%20showering%20areas%20Concealed%20fixings

Thanks for the advice, I was initially thinking of one like the following screwed to the wall: https://www.amazon.co.uk/supregear-Bathroom-Stainless-Non-Slip-Auxiliary/dp/B092JFFN1P?th=1

I'm just thinking of a short-ish, 30cm rail to fit to the tiled wall that the bath butts up against. Are there any makes to avoid or go for?

So, I'm referring to the 'well' where you can see the black top of the piston shaft that in this photo can be seen roughly underneath the black lever arm. Should the water be in the 'well' or should it be dry(ish)?

My toilet cistern has a siphon very much like the following (picture below - the only difference is that mine doesn't have that elongated blue 'slider' on the side) but otherwise it's a Derwent MacDee Metro 3-Part Siphon...

I don't like chucking things away when a tiny part probably costing less than a penny goes bad. I've repaired LED light bulbs before. Why waste your money and add to landfill when you can repair the item instead, even if it's something as 'basic' as an LED floodlight?

> Why would you need to be able to take an LED fitting apart? To replace a surface mounted LED or, at the very least, remove one that has shorted or blown in a way that's affected other LEDs. Some also start to flicker as they fail and removing just one would be very easy if the LED board can...