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Thanks for the suggestions, some useful thoughts there.

There are four short posts, only about 3 feet high, but over a period of time were leaned on then broken by some low hanging tree branches (all hidden under a lot of undergrowth which is why I didn't see the damage occurring). Because I don't feel like digging out a load of concrete for four...

Thank you Rob, good point about chemicals possibly damaging pipework, that particularly being a problem if it's hidden.

Thanks. Out of interest, is that even more powerful than Mr Muscle gel?

Thanks for the reply Rob. Yes, same waste pipe for the sink and bath. Getting to the trap to pull it will be difficult due to the way that the bath's main side panel is attached - is there a way to clean out any any soap residue, etc without removing the trap? Mr Muscle gel for example?

Usual bathroom arrangement - sink, bath and toilet. When using the sink I sometimes hear glugging/gurgling from the plughole in the bath, this is normal. Today I filled the sink with water to wash something (I very rarely fill the sink (maybe once every few months, if that)), usually I only...

Thanks. There are fields near me, I suspect that there are hundreds of rats (been like this for many years but they rarely cause me a problem).

Nice idea, thanks. Who was the Ebay seller, or was this some time ago?

Thanks. Electronic rat trap has already been set.

A door sill in an old outbuilding/shed has been seriously scrabbled at by a rat leaving an approx 1 inch deep groove (tapering off to about half an inch over a length of about 12 inches, about 4 inches wide). It also made a nice hole in the bottom of the door which I've now patched up, however...

Thanks.

Thanks, so this for example? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-Swan-SG1P2-Silicone-Grease/dp/B000GIQIKM/

To save a few quid I'm replacing the O-Rings and washers in some tap glands, like this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-1-2-bsp-full-turn-brass-threaded-tap-glands-pack/3279f What kind of grease should I use to lubricate the internal threads, etc? I think I have lying around some white...

Took the top off, checked the counterweight bolts and all seemed okay (but I managed to nip them all up a little more). Didn't remove the front but put my arm inside and the lower counterweight feels okay (no obvious looseness, hard to be sure though because of course some undetectable looseness...

I also enjoy fixing things but in the case of anything relatively complex I prefer to have a technical/service manual on hand just in case I get stuck. Depending on my mood I can be impatient and get frustrated easily, plus I have intermittent back problems which makes life more difficult...

Thank you kindly. Edit: had a quick skim through it, looks like a real pain to remove the drum. However, if it's just a loose counterweight then that won't of course be necessary. As an aside, that looks like an interesting channel (I love repair videos) so it's also given me something else to...

How do I remove the metal cover to check the counterweights? It seems like I need to remove the top and also the front panel, but it's not immediately obvious how to remove the latter. I can't seem to find any kind of service manual or suitable details online.

Just re-tried a manual spin - seems to be okay, sounds the same as it always has, no excess noise. So I guess I'll need to pull it out, remove the casing and take a look at the weights?

Thanks for the advice. I've just tried spinning the empty drum by hand but can't hear anything. Short of opening up the machine is there any way to tell if my particular unit has replaceable bearings? Maybe some kind of serial number lookup, manufacturing date, etc? Or could I tell just by...

My Hotpoint WML540 has recently started making an unusual rhythmic noise when on spin (and only on spin - not the normal wash rotation of the drum). Thought I'd try and record it to get some opinions, I've placed the .mp3 file into a .zip file (WML540 - audio.zip) and that can be seen in this...