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Funnily enough, the Oregon Duoline I have is in slightly different packaging but was definitely lubricated with something as it has an oily finish.

How far apart are your studs? If they're within 16", drill the mounting bracket to match.

I have a Solis inverter. When the breaker it's on tripped, I got an email from Solis saying that something was wrong. Perhaps have a poke about in the Solar Edge portal and see what settings you've got.

A couple of points, but not really answers to anything you asked: - You can't lighten with stain, only darken. - If you're hoping to end up at the same colour everywhere....it's not impossible, but different starting points and different timbers mean that it's go to be quite tricky to get a...

Stake it and see how it is in a year.

Yes, there are outdoor-grade sealants [eg for for window frames] but I am pretty sure a fence with blobs of sealant on it is going to look complete and utter cack.

Unfortunately, The Industry [or, their marketing/sales divisions] decided some time ago that it would be absolutely fine to describe products as being "fibre" even if the fibre doesn't get as far as the customer premises. In my opinion, it is disingenuous [or just fraudulent] to describe copper...

There's cheap sh*t line and there's decent line. Ones I've used and seem to be good: - Bradas Twist - Oregon Duoline I wouldn't want to be nearby if some fragments of metal line broke off when you were using it.

Or beech. Can mix red and green for interest.

I would be astounded if that was designed and built without a drain hole of some sort.

That sounds more like it, right height, right reaction. I pulled up all the ragwort from my meadow last year and there was none this year, so it's pretty easy to get rid of. Yes, I wore gloves, but I'm a bit weird about getting stuff on my hands, so I always wear gloves for gardening.

How? Steam iron? I was wondering if misting it with water, letting it soak in then drying it with a hot air gun would count as "steaming".

It's going above a door, so brackets at one end and in the middle, and then the other end is butted against a wall, so sitting on a batten fixed in to the wall. The rebate is on the bow side, so makes sense to go bow side up anyway.

I have a piece of beech 2000mm*250mm. Pretty sure it was the window board in the kitchen when the house was built in the '60s. I would like to use it as a shelf but it's got a fairly serious bow on it - clamp down one end, the other sticks up about 40mm. I have tried screwing some twin-slot...

If you're here simply for your own entertainment purposes, then if you're forgotten you'd already read a thread, it doesn't matter. If necro-posting vexes you so then you can sort by first post not last, then old threads will be pushed way down:

I have a black composite door that is east-facing, so full sun for quite a few hours in summer, and have never had a problem with it being difficult to open/close. Yes, it's a little bit tighter. But definitely not difficult.

As a person sat here on the internet who isn't the one having to do all the work, let me say....do it properly, or you'll be kicking yourself for years to come [possibly every time you look at it]. If it was me faced with the work, I'd be looking in to every bodge going!

Search ebay for 'water butt tap' and you will find sets with all the parts you need.

So long as your guttering is stopping water running off the roof from either hitting the walls directly or splashing back up, then you have solved most of the problem. If you don't actually want to collect the water, leave a hose pipe attached with the tap open and let it soak away somewhere...

31 ****ing posts on the fitting of a plug. Sheesh.