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welcome any thoughts on whether this is the best/ right way to go from here?

Until this week - yes! but I believe this may be because the soil level was sitting way too close to the DPC? Previously only 1-1.5 brick was exposed AND we also had a period with no gutters installed. You can see where those engineering bricks are dirty and to the far right of the photo...

Thanks - so would you suggest just washing the brick back/ cleaning off the mud and filling the gaps as best as possible? I am a bit concerned that I may only be filling the front of the gaps and damp could rise from the bottom where unfilled - is that a valid concern?

Hi all, We’ve had an extension built and due to the weather/ competing proprieties the garden level was left a bit high until now. I noticed a bit of damp on the outside wall so this week we have started to clear the soil and make sure the levels are correct to build back up to a patio. i.e...

We recently had a fibreglass roof laid and the top of the upstanding finish is untidy in places. The roofer suggested the window installer would cut any excess to fit the window. The window company say they would normally deal with it to make window sit right but couldn't say how. I'm worried...

So because of the dimensions of the room the final beam has about a 30mm gap against the wall. (The alternative would have been to install another beam and cut down blocks etc - which seemed like an overkill). The floor build up will have a 150mm PIR insulation before another 60mm odd of...

It's a conversion so no longer a garage. I've opted for engineering bricks just because the opportunity is there. Though some of the beam sits on existing/ previous wall which wasn't engineering brick. But my question was more about the water pooling under the floor - is this normal or should I...

Sorry for the slightly long explanation/ post... We are in the process of upgrading the garage floor as part of a conversion. Having broken/ dug up the concrete slab we found a lot of loose bricks - which I thought was weird (I'll come on to that in a bit) Most of the material (mud/ hardcore/...

We're having a warm deck flat roof on a new & existing extension and the builder has turned up with what looks like any other DPM. He said it's what he uses on the roof as the vapour barrier. A Google search does give this an option when searching for "roof vapour barrier" but also various foil...

Quick update - it wasn't the same brick. Now when we bought the house there were 2 extensions which had previously been done - all with varying shades of colour. So I decided to just go with this rather than faf around trying to find the correct colour as even if I got the exact brick, it would...

Our house has what I believe are Forterra LBC Chiltern multi colour which I would describe as being varying shades of orange. The standard image of Forterra LBC Chiltern seems to match the house, albeit it the house brick is probably a bit lighter after having weathered. However the bricks...

Yes, our roof was felt and the flashing extended onto their roof. So the intention is to create a parapet with only 2-3 courses of brick and then add appropriate flashing on the neighbours side to make good/ as before.

The neighbours roof cover is the original garage tin roof. It wouldn't be viable to extend their roof covering.

Garages of most 50/60's builds are quite narrow and maximising internal room space is also a key consideration. It's typical to have a stud & ridged foamboard insulation of some description. Cavity wall is not a viable solution for most including us, unfortunately.

Would you be so kind as to explain this for me please? It's a single wall, do I need to be concerned about the damp coming from the neighbours side given it will be exposed?

Hi everyone, Been lurking on this great forum for a while but my first post here. :) We are currently having a single-story extension built to the back of the house which will wrap around and join the garage to bring all the roofing to the same level. The garage roof has been removed and...