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Hi all, as per title I have a leak at the bottom of a valley between two roof faces. It’s a problem because it’s damaging the bricks and causing problems inside. Initially I thought it was a leaking section of guttering, so bought a new 90 degree corner. Then I had the gutters cleaned and when...

It specified producing a 2mm bed. Unsure if that’s the same depth as a K2. I’ve come home today and it’s noticeably firmer with no ‘sticky’ sound under pressure. I think it’s just taking longer to dry that expected — the tub says 24-48 hours before use, the data sheet online says 48-72 hours...

So half the room is done. I drew the border first and it’s gone down nicely with no gaps. I laid dry first so could do some of the cuts around the edges (where it overlapped the marks for the border). However. I think I applied too much adhesive (doubtful as I used the appropriate trowel) or...

Never worked with this adhesive before so was unsure how workable it was once applied (aware of the waiting period). Good to know I can remove any excess. Yes skimmed over the countersunk screw heads. Initially I unsure if this was needed as I’d hoped the primer would fill them.

The thing is I’m unsure how long it’s been leaking (the house was vacant a year before we bought it) and having not taken the carpet up, I’m not sure how extensive the damage is. No evidence at all of a leak on the ceiling below. I think it’s been slowly dripping when used. Definitely a...

That’s really useful thanks. Just didn’t want to do this assuming I knew where the seal was made, then have to rip it all out when the leak sprung up again. Good tips on applying it.

Yes floorboards are wet and the joist below is very spongy. There is also brick salts and eroded mortar causing the lining paper in my lad’s room the other side to peel. For now I need to stop the leak, then when we re-do the bathroom it’ll be a floor up job.

Happy with all of that, I was just unsure how these seal. As I say a shower screen at my old home sealed from the outside, so that’s there I placed the sealant. Didn’t want to start this until I knew where the seal was made. I’ll take up the old sealant, clean and replace with new (I have a...

That’s really helpful, thanks. In that case I’m going to measure and draw a line set back from the fireplace hearth, do a dry run to check for straightness, mark up this ‘section’ to glue and then this will be my first run. Means I can work down the room from top to bottom, and no going over...

Wife didn’t like my suggestion of carpet and of course wants herringbone. I decided to go for the glue down type as I think this will stand up better to fluid spillages from the children. I’ve screwed down 6mm ply and filled the gaps with jointing compound on the joints. Before I coat with...

Hi all, not long purchased our new home and getting on with sorting out leaks, damages and problems before Winter. A problem I hadn’t immediately noticed was this leaking shower tray. Years ago I had a bath with a pivoting glass screen. To seal this I sealed the inside junction between the...

They’re faux-sash windows (only the top half opens outwards by hanging on a couple of hinges). If the epoxy negates the need for screws I’ll avoid them altogether. Again, think I had my wood filler head on.

Enjoyed reading that, really, thanks a lot for an informative post (especially tips profiling and mixing the filler). I have used body filler a few times so I think that’s why I was drawn to Ronseal. I need to go and weigh up costs, sources of supplies. In terms of splicing the timber in, my...

Thanks a lot for the advice and pointers. Never worked with the stuff so had no idea on what brands to go for. Sounds like the resin will be good to use for this work. Is it better than the Ronseal wood filler? The first two images show the average level of rot on most windows — it seems to be...

I’ve recently moved into a new house. Built 1906 it’s in need of sympathetic repair work. I’ve cleaned out all the gutters which were blocked up and causing damp, repointed some ground floor brickwork with lime mortar, had a rear chimney stack taken down (breasts had been removed with no...

As per standard UK weather it’s peed it down over the weekend, and it was a good opportunity to see how the downpipe going into a ground hopper coped with the volume. It seemed to do absolutely fine making me wonder whether or not I could do away with the second problematic downpipe and adjust...

Think it’ll be too much water sadly. There are four roof ‘faces’ which I think would overwhelm it.

I considered that but wondered about having enough room to create the fall on the pipe. Rather than the hopper, I was going to get one of those T-piece sections.

Hi all, haven’t posted on here in a while. Now live in an older house (1906) with problems, but all from poor maintenance under previous owners. The first problem I want to tackle is the guttering and the right hand side downpipe on the attached picture. The guttering is blocked up in the...

Thanks all for the suggestions -- too many to reply to individually. I accept the type of heap I've built is going to take a while but ideally need to speed it up. I've stopped adding to it now and have just added lots of cardboard on the top. I turn it every week to get plenty of new air in...