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In my set up, I have around 1 metre flexy pipe that goes from the bath grill to the fan. I then have a 1.5 metre horizontal manrose pipe which eventually connects to the vertical pipe out of the roof. I am tempted to raise the fan so that the rigid horizontal pipe (soil pipe) is sloping down...

How do I do that with my current manrose pipes or the soil pipe arrangement? Will I then periodically drain it here? I think this is the sort of thing I had in mind but would appreciate some more details.

Thanks for that. Much appreciated. Should I be using a certain type/brand of sealant? I assume CT1 is not suitable for this?

So it sounds like I should insulate even if I am using the soil pipe? I might put a drain point on it, so I can periodically drain the pipe if there is any build up of water. Is that posisble/sensible?

The pipe eventually connects to a vertical pipe that goes out of the roof. I've also got a decent over-run on the fan to push the moisture through each time

ah, do I need to wrap this in insulation or something similar? Alternatively, if I use soil pipes and compatible couplers, will that solve the issue? Thanks for your help

Hi, sorry to push this again but I would be grateful for your advice with this.

I thought they were designed to be used with bathroom extractors. Have I got that wrong?

Why do these manrose pipes leak? Presumably the pipe and coupler fittings are designed for this. Should I be using soe sort of adhesive for the coupler fittings?

Would either of these be recommended?

I’ve got one of these electric roller doors This section at the top is quite flimsy across the length and keeps rattling in the wind I noticed that it has some sort of Velcro sticky tape which I’m guessing has worn and hence the rattling. I’ve peeled it off. There is some space behind...

Thanks for the responses. Is a straight bit of timber and two clamps the best option - in lieu of a proper track saw?

Had one of these keep appearing in my social feeds. It clamps to the wood. Has anyone tried them and are they any good? I normally achieve this with a straight edge and clamps.

Definitely AC light. There’s a different light for continuity.

Yep, tested the fuse but if that was blown, would I get an AC light? In the end I changed the 3 pin plug and hey presto! We have voltage reading at those pins. All working now. One question, why do I still only get a AC light here and no voltage?

There no life on this all of a sudden. The led doesn’t light up and it doesn’t start. When I put my fluke T130 on these probes, it shows AC but no voltage display. There’s plenty of battery in the tester and I’ve done a self-test to confirm that the tester works. When I test the wires...

I’ve had a Texecom Premier Elite system for 10 years. It’s been very reliable but has the occasional false alarms. Recently, I’ve had 3-4 false alarms from the only two DT PIRs on my system. One is in the loft and the other in the garage. I inspected them today and the inside is completely...

That's the longest I could get these 100mm manrose pipes in. Are longer lengths available? Also, what rubber couplers do you recommend for these 100mm pipes?

My setup is like this. I used a manrose coupler and duct tape on the joint but recently noticed that this leaks... Th grey pipe is a manrose round duct. Should I use one of those rubber boots with jubilee clip here?

It’s a gas pipe. It comes up in a cupboard where it’s open and then enters the boiler cupboard upstairs where it is open too. I assume that means that I can box it up here? I like the coving idea and boxing up to the top. I just have that section in the side that will still look odd.