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Ok. Sounds like i need another measure up in the light to see if I can get away with making it work by squeezing it in next to the cable. We are talking less than 100mm so I will have to try and make it work another way. Thanks everyone

It would require introducing a 3rd bollard which would be a final resort and one i want to avoid if at all possible

Hi, Firstly merry Christmas to everyone. I hope you had a good few days rest. I am installing electronically retractable bollards in my drive before I have the resin bound gravel finish laid. I dug the hole for the 1st bollard today which I knew had the mains power running nearby. Typically...

I purchased it new 2 years ago and have only just got round to setting it up so new. The POE switch recognises that it is drawings power and the AP lights up so i cant see the power as being the issue.

I hope this is the correct section to post in. I am trying to set up my Unifi6 AP. I have connected it to my switch and it powers up. After a rest it flashes blue then white then solid white as i understand it should. I then connect ia the Unifi app. It doesnt recognise the AP automatically...

Gave them a call and they came out the following day and replaced it FOC. Cracking service.

Cheers. To be honest I dont know if it has ever worked. Can I buy a "entryphone london" handset and connect or would I need to get them in to do it?

This is the main panel. There is a company online also called entryphone so I will call them on Monday and see if this is one of theirs. If there is a way to wire up a new one that would be prefered over calling out an engineer.

It certainly looks cheap and is unbranded. I don't mind buying a new handset I just want to know I will be able to connect it.

The door entry phone has been pulled off the wall and I need to rewire it to operate the main door. Unfortunately none of the wires are left in the connections for me to see which wires go where. The cable looks like a Cat5 / bell wire with a number of coloured wires. On the right the...

Ok that answers it then. Don't want to ruin the last bit of work.

Hi everyone. The house refurbishment and extension is now finally finished after 3 years. The final job is to top the driveway and paths down the side if the house. We are going for resin bound gravel and already have the sub base laid in prep for this. As 1 last job to do I am considering...

Tha ks everyone. Thought it was ok but wanted to check. 16amp MCB. Wired in 2.5mm T/E

Nothing in the bathroom. The spur used to feed the UFH for the bathroom but was located in the hallway. The spur/socket/rad are all located in the hallway.

No the spur/socket is in the hallway

Hello everyone. I have a radial circuit that feeds an UFH matt and heated towel rail via 2 fused spurs. I have done away with the UFH and want to replace with a small electric radiator (330w nominal power / 125w effective power). I believe I am OK to connect the rad via the feed previously...

Tried an aav it no good. Will get a plumber in to see if they can identify the problem. I nodded through to the svp and there doesn't seem to be any blockage there

No pics of the original sorry. Where should the valve be located? Something like this? https://www.toolstation.com/mcalpine-vp2-air-admittance-valve/p36620 Is there one that can be connected to the 2nd spigot location? Spigots now facing up

Pictures below. There water runs from the sink to the last inspection point so there is no blockage. Water doesn't drain from kitchen sink unless an inspection cap is removed.

Yes it does. What would this point towards? Is it some form of vacuum.