Search results

well it has since been done properly, but our consevatory had quite deep timbers so i fitted celotex between the joists that held up the glass, I was able to fit 125mm celotex, then fitted plasterboard up that I screwed into the joists. On the outside I painted with aluminium primer, then white...

Well to fix to glass you need the surfaces spotless and grease free, so a wipe down with MEK or similar after you have cleaned it with anything else. Also araldite in tubes slowly gets weaker due to moisture getting in, it might need to be a fresh tube, or use a bubble pack of epoxy, those do a...

Lime is better from the humidity control it provides to the room inside.

yes, otherwise you have a path for water to dribble all the way down the wall, if it is very windy all bets are off, but in milder rain it makes a huge difference.

If the cement fill is not complete, then there may be a path for water to pass back to the wall without being caught by the groove. the same thing is done to wooden lintels and windows, relies on having a clean run for the water to drop off before making it back to the wall.

look for one of the "stopping" products, a solvent based filler that gives a wooden coloured fill, choice of colours available, some are quite tough to sand from memory, not used them for a while. Once the wood surface is flat and to the right colour there are many stains available, or BLO...

you need a groove underneath the coping stone so that water that runs down the outer edges has somewhere to drop off, rather than running all the way back to the wall. It only needs to be a few mm deep and wide. the gaps between the coping stones need to be fully filled with sand cement, and...

Grrr, I have got the beading out, and started trying to repack the corners, it is still warped, but have managed to get more packing in than before. I first set the hinges to about vertical, and the inner and outer edges near enough plumb. the door still seems to need another 2mm to get it...

ok, so how do I do that?

As Title, I have adjusted the hinges quite a lot already, and the outside view shows that the top of the door is about 6mm further away from the companion door than the bottom. The closing edge is still much lower than the hinge edge and it is rubbing on the plate provided on the base, and this...

I found that a gentle filing off the mounting points on the brackets would make them smoothly interchangeable.

the enamel, being a glass based covering, will not be attacked.

I went with the Aldi/Ferrex for my power tools, I am an amateur, so do not really need to have that many power tools available, they have worked well, except for the multitool, I need to find the purchase receipt for that one as it keep undoing itself every time I use it! Hving a shared battery...

chainsaw is the wrong tool for a multitude of springy stems, much too dangerous I think.

loppers and a pruning saw, but reduce the faces as much as possible with a hedge trimmer first, you can get the ladder closer that way and do not have to lean in quite as much.

well the granite wall is non porous so it will take longer to dry out anyway

I also recommend brick acid, use an old toothbrush to scrub the stains, will lift much quicker that way, and dont forget to wash off the tiles and yourself afterwards.

could it be a small pipe coming in from about 4 oclock, using top of picture as 12 o clock? otherwise cannot work out what is at the bottom of that drain. If you change it then you would need a soakaway installing, lots of digging and mess for that option.

brick acid will dissolve the cement that binds it together, but you seem to have got past that now.

cant tell on the rest from photos given, but the render to the left of drawn arrow in pic 2 is potentiall bridging the dpc on that wall. you need some more careful investigation to find out what is there on the rest, any of us could not be certain about what is there from current pics.