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As title, want to continue the tiling next to the hob onto the tall cabinets that will be about 40cm away from hob, they are 6mm tiles, so not too heavy, but need to choose the correct adhesive, I already have some mapei super flexible powder, will that be ok?

only 4 or 5 of those look useable to me

buy a lidl or aldi brushless angle grinder and some diamond disks to make a wider gap for the reneforcement to go underneath the track. Used carefully one diamond cutting disk would easily cut all of that for you.

the original mortar would have been lime based with horsehair added for strength, it will need sealing if you are going for a gypsum based plaster.

Also consider if the correct screw rawlplugs were used? Is it a partition wall, have the correct sized holes been used if it is bricks, as the screws just pulled out.

but then you are putting impermeable porcelain on top...

Hi, It is a timber extension and I am tiling the window cill as well as the front and sides. There is going to be a quarter round tile used at the join between the flat and vertical tiles. The quarter round needs about 12.5mm between vertical and horizontal. The gap just about works out for a...

you could put only some of the lamps connected to a particular PIR, so that the lamps near any movement are the ones that come on.

lift that slab to see what is underneath, if I was a betting man I would put money on it being 5 dabs that are not fully strong and have left hollow patches that mean the slabs are not fully supported and hence easier to break. Lift the slab and it will look one the ones my cowboy left me to...

As title, I find it hard to get the finish even across the whole surface. I can get most of it fairly even but keep ending up with patches and streaks that are dull. Any tips for how to make it a more even finish? I dont mind if it is not high gloss as long as I can get it more even.

yes, looks very different each side, and seems to have lost some of the wrap under on the right at the top .

they seem to have o-rings, at least mine do, and no leaks to far.

Heatgun and scraper to get the bulk of it off.

You need shellac based knotting sealer to start with, the resin that comes out of the knots pushes away the paint from the inevitable cracks in the branches poking sideways through the planks. shellac seals it in and fills the cracks.

It has cracked because the landscaper used 5 dabs of concrete so they can disappear with your money faster. chances are you can just pull the cracked one up with your hands... https://cdn.diynot.com/data/xfmg/thumbnail/103/103541-875b9dd9782843e079577689f0c34f3c.jpg?1652772846 Those slabs could...

Also, almost every single apple tree you buy has the variety you buy grafted onto a root stock different variety, if you cut it back too far then you will have a different apple fruit to the one you had before.

Well I have it in place, but the little rubber covered clips for the sink are giving me problems when I lower it into the cutout. one or more drop out as I am lowering it in. Do I remove the screws and metal bit till it is all in place? Or what is the best way to get these in? It is a "quartz"...

Is it a heated room or unheated? Celotex is impermeable anyway, it is just the risk of frost below the floor is possible that would make a difference I think. If it was a wall one would control the permeability on both sides of the celotex.

moss remover (ferrous sulphate) mixed as a solution, sprinkled on, wait a few days then gently brush it all off, you may need to use some brick acid to clean off the iron stain if that doesnt go in the few days after treatment

Or, use an Auger to drill a 6" diameter hole where each foot is going to be and fill it with concrete, with stainless bolts set into the concrete to fix the feet to. Not to pricey to buy an auger to make the holes required, and is much easier than digging a big deep hole and then putting...