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Set your stall out and there is no need to freeze anything. Not withstanding the messing about with the PTFE etc now that you have nipped up the nut a bit tighter is it still leaking from that joint as if it still is you may have an issue with the olive not seating right or being over compressed...

In accordance with Cl 2C6 Approved doc A as basic starter for 10 (190 thick walls) and develop it to what spec you want the garage to be built to

Lost me with grub screws??

Ditto

Is it a gravity fed or combi pressurised system? How did you manage to add PTFE? How did you manage to add jointing compund?

Pretty boring investor so just plod along with capital in shares which with reinvesting divis and growth have gone up 27% this year as opposed to 16% last year so fairly happy with that and trying to put any thoughts of a crash out of my mind. Private pension with Aegon has gone up 15% so...

Has your action stopped the drip? Depends on system, pressurised or gravity, but both doable without draining down but try above advice 1st

I can slam any door light weight or not as I am sure the child can if he wants to it just means not letting go till you have banged it shut

As stated above possibly overkill and depends why you need to strengthen but FYI re sistering https://www.labc.co.uk/news/how-get-it-right-bolting-timbers-together-correctly

I like the electric planer idea which is similar to what I did when I needed to humps/ridges in some floorboards before I laid some lino. The drier/brittle the bitumen the better as it would be more akin to wood. Try taking of 1/2 mm at a time and see what happens, if it works, fine, if not then...

Loosening the cog?? No need to touch the cog, basically you need to take the tension off the shaft/pulley wheel by backing it off 1/2 a turn or so ( by using a spanner or mole grips or rods placed in holes???) so it gives you a bit of looseness in the cable so you can fit that in the correct...

Do what Wayner suggests

usually find mechanism hidden by door as soon as you start to raise it hence photos taken whilst door shut? Appears not, same as mine, a couple of pairs at 180 spacing, but useful for holding the tensioned spring in place as mole grips (or in may case spanner) moved round for positioning for...

My mechanism slightly different from yours , can't make out how your door pivots open but probably not to dissimilar from mine. When I had an issue with mine I used a couple of metal rods located in the holes as per photo and a spanner on the adjacent nut and basically wound the spring loaded...

If you are confident with your soldering skills then crack on a pipe bender is an expensive bit of kit just for a one off (or 2 or 3 occasions), as a DIYer I have soldered joints under floorboards, in the ceiling and behind replastered walls and have not had any issues in 40 years. I have some...

Short on facts, but c16 5 x 2 spaced at 400 centres satisfies structural requirements for a standard floor load of 150kg/m2 so depending how your SE is adding on the weight of the bath the 150 x 50 could be in the right field if he means to replace the existing joists, if he means in addition...

Can you take a longer shot of the bar leading into the pulley (to ascertain whether there are any sprocket holes as per the video example and/or nut for spanner connection) if so we can take it from there? If not then its a case of mole grips and lap of Gods

Not 100% but if you can prise off end plate you may be able to do some adjustments. My thought is if you can move the door out at the bottom and middle hinges it may swing the bottom leading edge of the door more upwards when opening and not catch the carpet. Not certain on that but perhaps...

pic of door hinges?

Fernox F1 or Sentinel X100 seems to be the go to ones, at £15-20 it hardly worth not doing and see what happens