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Beams can be joined in principle. But the situation on site is everything, and the only way to know is for someone experienced to look at it. Two beams that individually support half the length of a wall, may not collectively support the whole length.

Yes, but you will get that money back in the near future. You wont ever get a flat ceiling back. Ever. That's the cost you should be considering

100mm block will be OK. Drop a sheet of DPM down the back of the wall to keep a lot of the damp out and prevent pattern staining

Could you give a precis of this theory?

You need the advice of a structural engineer for the beam options. He will need to know what is there currently in terms of section size and bearings, and this will mean removing parts of the wall and ceiling to allow for inspection. There may be options to prop from internal only without...

100 will be fine. It should be twice as wide as the wall - more for stability than bearing in this case. Fibres are to control drying cracking in screeds not concrete, and do not give a mix any strength anyway. You don't need any mesh. Drainage of the retained soil would be important.

Are you sure that's building sand? It looks a bit yellow. Building sand would normally be more red/brown. Some places sell building sand which is actually really sharp sand and that can make crap unworkable mortar It's impossible to "compromise" a mix. It does not matter what is used to mix...

Not as hard. It's like a tin of blancmange. It hardens, but stays flexible to deal with any minor movement.

Vapour barriers are for timber walls and roofs only, not masonry.

You fix smaller sections of new joist to the sides of the existing. Treat the rot with preservative and stop the source of the damp and you don't need to cut out the rotten sections. 600mm overlap, two m10 bolts and an a few nails

Asphalt is the roof coating. Use Acrylpol to coat the upstand and joint

It's for the ironing board

Scrape out all soft wood, clear off paint about 50mm past this, brush on some wood hardener to the bare wood and let it dry, then fill with a two part epoxy wood filler ( external grade). Prime and paint.

You mean the Approved Documents, which are just suggestions or one way of meeting Building Regulations. 10mm or less of insulation will acheive the same thing, as will a certain type of block inner leaf, or insulation within the cavity. Your perimeter strip provides the thermal break that...

Don't rely on the internet! :rolleyes: The images you see of 25mm upstands is just lazy detailing and everyone just copying something they saw on the internet There is no requirement for an [insulating] upstand for screed, merely a thermal break to deal with preventing theoretical...

Hard to see, but has that upstand flopped down and is lying horizontal?

18g will be fine. The good thing with these brads is that they bend easily when they go into the plaster, so give a more secure fitting than a straight [thicker] brad. Add some adhesive though

I approve

Chuck Norris recommended EPDM It lasts longer than any other cover too, and if need be is easier to repair. LOL @ one report on DIYnot :rolleyes:

No to the mix and lime 3:1 sand/cement, and the sand ratio needs to be at least 1/3 sharp sand. The wall and the copings need to be thoroughly clean and dust-free and then well bonded with full joints. You would do them all at once and you need to line them through with a string line. Don't...