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Saddle back coping stones. Just like what you put on garden walls if you want to watch some videos They look a bit light for that location, so make sure you do a good job sticking them down, and jointing them together.

:giggle:

Bricks = bricklayer! Roofers may well know something about bricks and mortar, but it may not be the right things, just stuff they have heard. Ask a "roofer" what he knows about sulphate attack of mortar. And in a follow up question ask him what he needs to do to the joints and what cement he...

Your images are not showing much, other than common skim and mastic cracking from thermal movement of the frame and maybe cooler edges of the reveal making the skim brittle. I can't see any staining or signs of water penetration, or mould.

Many old chimneys lean to some degree :rolleyes: due to flue gasses attacking the cement in the mortar. Its not a big deal unless it's a tall slender stack. BTW, roofers work with tiles, not bricks and tend to be the wrong trade to deal with brick chimneys.

I've just come across this nonsense with a tower scaffold. Quoted a 6.2m working height which sounds great, then a bit lower states that the platform height is actually 4.2m which is no use for the job. What work can you actually do properly that is 2m above the thing you are standing on? FFS

Alright smudger!

:-(

The engineer's job is to design suitable foundations which take account of any site condition and constraints, preferences and available budget. It's important that the engineer is told about these things. There are several engineering options available for this scenario and mention of a "1m x...

It's actually not cheaper, and NCD is often not as much as you think - it certainly wont be as much as the cost of that job

I just suggested that to Mrs W, but she was more concerned about the gas bill. :cautious:

Heating or water pipes tend not to be randomly placed in floor screed. You can normally see where the heating pipes are going from the radiators and work out where the water pipes are going by the locations of the taps. They typically go above ceilings.

It's storm damage. Aren't you insured? BTW, you have a duty to ensure that anyone you employ works in a safe manner. If they have an accident, then you could be liable

That's a non-standard lintel then. If not an angle section bolted to a frame, then a fabricated beam with an angle or plate for the external leaf. You can't rely on details at the council of what is supposed to be, so will need to remove blocks to investigate

Best not to use a bitumen based product, rather an acrylic polymer resin product such as Acrylpol, or a polyester resin same as the GRP.

Is it a timber frame?

That steel looks a bit thick for a lintel, so may be a steel with a welded angle. I suspect your answer to the lintel and the water penetration will need those blocks at the bearing to be removed to see what's going on. That work should have required building regulation approval.

That lintel does not appear to have a bearing on the external leaf, and if so, yes water can run down the opening reveals.

Or .... it is a potential Turkish barbers, Vietnamese nail bar and American candy shop. Money tree

You are overthinking. But if you are really concerned about noise, then trickle vents in isolation are not the only factor you should be considering.