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Plenty of good advice above. I live in a building converted to flats in the same era. Mine has the ash deafening that JohnD mentioned: https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/Ash_deafening …except where a previous upstairs neighbour had it removed, because “it was filthy”, and didn’t replace...

...and a Euromodule flex outlet. If you can find a single-width flex outlet, you can have an unswitched fused outlet. But my quick search only found 45A euromodule flex outlets that I guess are for cookers and are the same width as the socket.

There are some grid flex outlets, though finding a system with the combination of parts that you need can be tedious. Look here for example: https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/categories/wiring-accessories/grid-systems/grid-flex-outlets

https://www.rhs.org.uk/lawns/lawns-from-seed

Is my maths right: £8k / tonne = £8 / kg 22mm pipe = ~0.5 kg/m = ~£4/m 15mm pipe = ~0.33kg/m = ~£2.70/m That’s a bit less than half the price of new pipe.

Quite possibly, but writing a post takes at least a few seconds. Clicking report and typing “spam” clearly takes me less time.

Is the blank plate to the right of the socket actually a cooker flex outlet?

Apparently I'm too fast reporting spammers. I report one, then when I try to report a second, it says "you must wait 11 seconds before doing that". What's that supposed to achieve?

No, it doesn’t work like that. Ask in “Electrics UK” for advice.

So do you now not have any way to have the heating automatically on/off at different times of day? If so, that seems like a defect. It is common practice, on a modern system of this type, to have a time-clock (“programmer”), a room thermostat, and TRVs. Often the first two combined into a...

But why not use a “normal” thickness? Why so thin?

Have you been doing "internet research"? Beware, there's a lot of nonsense out there. Have you looked at EWI documentation from Kingspan or Celotex?

Yeah I wondered about that. Are you saying that the depth of the window ledge puts it out of zone 1? What is the rule / rationale for this?

Do you currently have (and use) extractors in the kitchen and bathroom? How do you dry washing? Extractors first, if you lack them.

Why EPS rather than PIR?

You seriously went on a course on glyphosate spraying that gave you certificates, and they told you that it was so safe that you can drink it? Please tell me you're making that up. (I've looked up "PA1" and "PA6" and they are real things, issued by LANTRA. Kaitai, was your course suspiciously...

Did they tell you that on your course?

Does the doorbell spec say that it can deliver whatever the solenoid needs?

Hmmm. How long are the wires? Assuming that you're measuring correctly, that suggests that there may be long wires and a significant voltage drop, and you're lucky that the solenoid works at all. Try measuring at the other end of the wires?

I believe that the regs position is that if the network cable's insulation is not rated for 240 V then it should be separated from the mains wiring, i.e. with a physical gap (maybe 100mm?, not sure) or in conduit or trunking. Some network cable insulation is rated for 230 V, some is rated for...