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Chip around the waste pipe and pan. Sit on floor and use your legs and see if it moves

It's a sealed system. Pressure should not drop. I top mine maybe once a year but that's normal through natural pressure drop. Call the plumbers back for advice and talk about it so you understand. Tell them about the air bubbles.

Air in the system. Corrosion inside radiators causes gas so treatment inhibitors stop this. You can bleed system and check the automatic air vents are working and sometimes they need a tap or fiddle with air cap. Seek out a plumber if you can't sort yourself. Also combi boilers randomly pump...

MDF can be an effort to get the cut edges smooth with filler. Ply is worse Id use soft wood. Place 2mm packer between door and door stop when you nail on.

https://www.bes.co.uk/above-and-below-ground-mdpe-elbow-25mm-comp-x-3-4-bsp-m-26350/ Not my area but at a guess

Pan set on sand and cement. Sit on floor and push with your feet. Sometimes it will break away. As for where it's connected that depends. Can be hard brittle contention. Just a case of chipping at it as can hold pan firm.

Standard set is fine. I use the quick dry mostly but it's better on shallow fills so I can crack on. Drying time is only 30% faster maybe. Not going to make much difference for what you are doing. 30mins set time is approx. Could be longer depending on suction and depth so don't t take that...

Mix wood glue or PVA with water. All sorts of ratios quoted but for a small amount on a dry cut plasterboard edge its don't matter. Mix 3 water to 1 PVA or in to put another way add a splash of water to a small amount of PVA. Yeah. Get in in the joints. Yes its a good Idea to scratch...

Toupret powder filler. A 2kg box might do that but for the cost it wouldn't be a problem if you had to buy two boxes. PVA in joints and let dry. Use wood glue and a splash of water to thin as that's PVA if you have some. Fill joints. Push filler in a bit. When setting after 30 mins ( approx...

Were there plans drawn showing the removal? If not then you can put the window back. Any concerns contact your local planning office for guidance. Also is there a lintel above window or was that removed? You will need building regs to fit a new one

If you had a MDF lined frame you could just the unit in and hold in place with a polymer grab

Dig out around it a bit. Couple of lengths of wood wedged to hold post virtual. Post create, which you buy in a bag . Pour the powder in around. Add water. Hammer it a bit to firm up a bit, walk away.

Door stop on? Fix there then doors stop will cover screw holes. Or Maybe they just wedge frame and glue in with foam and polymer grab. Set door on a outer MDF frame like with fire doors. They come pre finished in a frame. I was told new houses have doors in frames as well

Square corner as normal then curve wall in like a hockey stick. Of years ago they run it in like running cornice. Use resin wood filler and template and make it round matching the wood

Fit as if it was 90 degrees and fill the top.

https://amzn.eu/d/0c3UkiI4 Or https://amzn.eu/d/0gdXxUL7 Loads of options.

Ovens come with feet and shoulders be adjustable. You can always packed them. Furniture levelers pads and other things on market.

I've user insulated plasterboard over solid walls many times with no problems. Just needs to be dry with no damp problems. To your specific job I can't say for sure. You need to research a bit and decide.

Plug fitter is a rj45 connector. You can buy a kit cheap. I assume that's what you will need for camera or access point. Will be power over ethernet? 5mm masonry drill. Come at it either side. Old screwdriver poke about a bit. Not difficult to punch through edge if frame

Insulated plasterboard stuck on with foam. Then a few TIMCO plastic insulation fixings. Foam will act as a damp barrier