0.8m x0.6m 12.5mm board repair

[Nedman87]

I had some pipework to run from the floor up into the wall for a towel rail during a recent barhroom renovation.

Iv got the pictured patch to fill in.

There is a gap on the right hand side. Am I better to remove and pack the back of the board or just use filler over a larger area?

Any recommendations on what to use? I have looked at easyfill and toupret interior filler and try almost a small area skim.

Or would this need something more like toupret joint, fill and skim?

Thanks all

 

[Wayners]

Toupret powder filler.
A 2kg box might do that but for the cost it wouldn't be a problem if you had to buy two boxes.
PVA in joints and let dry. Use wood glue and a splash of water to thin as that's PVA if you have some.
Fill joints. Push filler in a bit.
When setting after 30 mins ( approx ) mesh tape and filler over joints.
After 30mins when setting fill over again.
Keep repeating until you are happy.
Let it dry.
120 grade sandpaper on something flat like wood and sand smooth.
Paint.
Filler is easier and better to skim over when setting and damp Vs dry. Just build up the layers.
You can spot fill when dry if needed though.

Also the flatter and more level you get board in the easier it is and better than job.
Packing plasterboard at the back so it sits flush. If you have to remove a bigger area so be it.

 

[Nedman87]

Thanks @Wayners

This is what I was going to pick up today

https://www.screwfix.com/p/toupret-interior-filler-5kg-5-pack/184he

So this will be better over the joint, fill and skim?

Also just regarding the pva, does this just go into the joints neat? I assume this is just to seal the loose powder on the boards and give the filler something to stick to?

On the right hand edge where the boards are at a different level, should I chase 1mm out down the high side board to set the mesh scrim in to help avoid a bump and having to feather out further?

Thanks for your help!

 

[robinbanks]

should I chase 1mm out down the high side board to set the mesh scrim in to help avoid a bump and having to feather out further?

You could but I bet if you set your level at any other point on the wall, unrepaired place, you’ll find a 1mm deviation that you don’t notice in normal use anyway

 

[Wayners]

Mix wood glue or PVA with water.
All sorts of ratios quoted but for a small amount on a dry cut plasterboard edge its don't matter.
Mix 3 water to 1 PVA or in to put another way add a splash of water to a small amount of PVA.
Yeah. Get in in the joints.

Yes its a good Idea to scratch surface back to allow for tape depth, but if that's plasterboard you can't scratch surface back.
If there is a plasterer skim on board you can scratch it back to board surface.

Re filler type.
They are all slightly different but all universal.
Joint and skim is longer settling time and will slow job up.
It's more for jointing and skimming.
Toupret powder is universal and you don't want much plus the faster setting time will help you.

For small taping jobs on stud walls I've used toupret powder. Just better value and easier.

 

[Nedman87]

Mix wood glue or PVA with water.
All sorts of ratios quoted but for a small amount on a dry cut plasterboard edge its don't matter.
Mix 3 water to 1 PVA or in to put another way add a splash of water to a small amount of PVA.
Yeah. Get in in the joints.

Yes its a good Idea to scratch surface back to allow for tape depth, but if that's plasterboard you can't scratch surface back.
If there is a plasterer skim on board you can scratch it back to board surface.

Re filler type.
They are all slightly different but all universal.
Joint and skim is longer settling time and will slow job up.
It's more for jointing and skimming.
Toupret powder is universal and you don't want much plus the faster setting time will help you.

For small taping jobs on stud walls I've used toupret powder. Just better value and easier.

I stuck the pva in to the joints on neat as I wanted to get on with something today haha. Hopefully thats fine.

Scratched back some of the right hand edge. It looks like it was filled previously for the same issue to be honest. When I cut the board out in the first place there did seem to be a very thick layer of jointing filler. I had cut out to the board edge. Attached a photo to show.

Tomorrow once PVA is dried will start the filling/finishing.

Not sure if it's an issue or will effect the 30 minute wait times you mentioned but I have the standard set rather than the the quick dry?