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I think the original battens were beech, 1/2" by 2"

I'll definitely consider that, the photo was from the right-hand side, so only three sections of a five section bay are showing. The bay was previously tiled to a curve, as are all the bays on my street, I imagine that straight batten sections will mean that the bay would no longer be tiled on a...

Thanks, so the sarking boards could be fixed onto the timber frame and then the tiles nailed to the sarking boards, are they quite flexible?

Bay by wingit posted 1 Apr 2020 at 4:19 PM

Do you guys think an exterior ply would hold clay tiles in places securely for decades, as I think it's the easiest of all the options to achieve. I'm also wondering if it would be a good idea to seal the cut edges of the ply with something

I tried bending them, using hot water, over a few hours, but one snapped in two and another started splitting. So it would be a lengthy process. They would dry out overnight as well, and I noticed they creaked and sounded like they would crack as they dried out. I think it would just take too...

problem is, it's a 'cold roof' bay, and moisture would be present

ah yes, thanks (y)

could you explain that one a bit more please, I can't get my head around it

Is that using 38x25mm battens? Maybe I bought poor quality battens, but even when I soaked them, they broke at the knots. The curve is quite a lot. The original battens from 90 years ago that I removed, were hardwood 1/2 by 2 inch

Thanks, it doesn't look very easy to find four metre lengths. So, at the joins, because they will be under tension from the bend, I imagine there is more likelihood of a weaker fixing. Is there any technique to limit that?

I notice that the edge of the lead I removed was folded under itself at the section under the cill, presumably that was to create the edge a tray. I think I'll copy that method, I don't think there is enough room between the top of the bay's wooden frame and the cill to turn the lead up, and the...

I'm renovating my bay window, circular segment kind of design. I need to bend some wood to form the tile battens. I already tried kerf bending some roofing battens, but with the knots and general quality of the battens, it wasn't working, they crack and split too easily, even when soaked. They...

I managed to get the old lead out, was not easy at all, but it was really in a sorry state after all. The new flashing should just slide in place under the window sill. Any advice on what to use to fix the new lead work in safely? Builders silicone? Thanks

Hi KenGMac, the lead flashing design is common to most of the houses in this estate, 1930s built. Thanks for the advice.

I'm replacing the battens and tiles on the bay and the old lead flashing is cracked and torn in places, the windows were replaced a couple of years ago and new mastic applied. The top of the lead flashing tucks under the sill and is solidly in place, I did want to replace the lead but because...