Bay Window Lead Flashing Repair or Replace?

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I'm replacing the battens and tiles on the bay and the old lead flashing is cracked and torn in places, the windows were replaced a couple of years ago and new mastic applied.

The top of the lead flashing tucks under the sill and is solidly in place, I did want to replace the lead but because it looks so difficult to remove the old flashing I'm considering repairing it by welding.

The two tears shown are typical of the condition, the bay is 4 metres around, and the flashing is in approximately 80cm lengths.

Any advice gratefully received.


 
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wingit, good evening.

Unusual lead work design must admit I rather like it?

As for your "welding" idea, bluntly, no, lead can be so called " burned" but there is a high degree of skill involved, suggest you have a look at YouTube for "Lead Burning"

I have seen it done on a [very] few occasions, by shall I call them "older" well versed plumbers. the practice is at times dangerous in confined spaces because of the toxicity of lead??

Ken.
 
the problem here is the lead is already stress fractured and will fracture again , burn repair or not.
to replace properly requires window out.
you could add some more flashing under the original. not perfect but might do the job for a time
 
Hi KenGMac, the lead flashing design is common to most of the houses in this estate, 1930s built.

Thanks for the advice.
 
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the problem here is the lead is already stress fractured and will fracture again , burn repair or not.
to replace properly requires window out.
you could add some more flashing under the original. not perfect but might do the job for a time

I managed to get the old lead out, was not easy at all, but it was really in a sorry state after all. The new flashing should just slide in place under the window sill.
Any advice on what to use to fix the new lead work in safely? Builders silicone?

Thanks
 
It should not need fixing as such.

It should pass under the cill and turn up behind the frame on the inner edge it acts as a tray.
 
It should not need fixing as such.

It should pass under the cill and turn up behind the frame on the inner edge it acts as a tray.

I notice that the edge of the lead I removed was folded under itself at the section under the cill, presumably that was to create the edge a tray. I think I'll copy that method, I don't think there is enough room between the top of the bay's wooden frame and the cill to turn the lead up, and the window fixings would prevent the lead going under more than maybe two inches.

When our windows were replace a couple of years ago, the fitters seem to have stapled the lead down. They then used silicone to seal between cill and the top of the lead, that's what made it so difficult to remove.
 
It should be turned up.
But you have what you have.

Pretty common for window fitters not to do the right thing..
I have fitted new trays in the past to see the window fitter screw down through it. Their logic was they used a bead of silicone under it.
 

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