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Having spoken with a couple of technical departments, that type of breathable membrane is not suitable for internal insulation. TLX Silver, for example, is suitable but would require 38mm battens over it to allow for expansion of the insulation, negating the space-saving I was hoping for. For...

I'll be using Redland Rosemary clay tiles on 38 x 25mm battens, can anyone recommend suitable screws to fix the battens to the rafters?

I'm renovating the inside and outside of my bay window, it's a 1930's house. I'll be using YBS BreatherQuilt and solid PIR foil insulation. I've stripped away the plasterboard on the inside of the bay, and plan to fit the BreatherQuilt against the inside and outside face of the rafters, for two...

It will just be an electric fire, but one hasn't been chosen yet

I've added the extra pictures to my first post I left the facing header out of the picture to more easily see the gap. The pillars and facing uprights are just stood in place in the photos, roughly where they should be, not fixed in yet.

SurroundUpright by wingit posted 15 Sep 2017 at 12:42 PM Full by wingit posted 15 Sep 2017 at 3:58 PM CloseUp by wingit posted 15 Sep 2017 at 3:58 PM Side by wingit posted 15 Sep 2017 at 3:58 PM The problem I'm having is the back of the facing panels will be set forward from the wall (58mm...

Yeah, you're right. I'll do just that. Thanks. The reason I was unsure was because I didn't know what to expect opening up the shower valve, in case I couldn't put it back together or needed special seals or something. Having opened it up, it was very straight forward, Loctite 55 and the job's...

ShowerValve by wingit posted 3 Jun 2016 at 1:11 PM I've got a concealed shower valve plumbed in, I connected up the shower arm and decided to use a blanking nut to stop it off and turn the water on to pressure check it, not sure that's a good thing to do, but it seemed so at the time. Anyway...

I had three plasterers look at it and they all just said mesh over it would be good enough. The crack is hairline, will just have to keep an eye on it now. I'll post back in the thread if it opens up again, so others can learn from it. Fingers crossed it's sound enough.

Thanks guys (y) I'll either go with gas tape or Loctite 55 Edit : I used Loctite 55 to do the job and it was so simple, I won't use PTFE again.

Thanks guys (y) job's a good'un, much better then the old light, it's a small room with a sloped ceiling so a wide angled bright beam LED is perfect.

In my cloakroom the old halogen downlight fizzled out when a pipe leaked, I thought I'd just buy a nice new LED downlight and swap it out, but a few questions have arisen. The electrician that installed the old halogen light did not connect earth to the light. I looked at the junction box and...

Builders installed the shower originally and sadly a copper pipe in a concealed tiled wall sprang a pinpoint corrosion leak. Having ripped the walls down and replaced the pipe I got to fixing the shower arm in place to make sure it is watertight. The shower arm connects into a 1/2" to 15mm...