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£600 to not fix the problem?? Ahem.. Clean and degrease mating surfaces and apply CT1 or similar to glue the speedfit elbow into the soil pipe. Secure with cable ties, daisy-chained to achieve length. Allow, if possible, overnight to set. Won't make the unvented install correct but should...

This is almost certainly a generic euro unvented product imported without UK type approval/certification. Cheap for a reason. With the correct safety inlet group and appropriate expansion vessel (and safety discharge pipework) hard-piped in it probably could be made to work safely, if...

or https://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-monoblock-tap-spanner-set-3-pieces/40102

http://www.klar-environment.com/pdf/PD0094-24BA-BB_Installation_Guidelines.pdf page 10 might be of use Disclaimer: I'd talking to klargester technical help before taking this on (or employing a pro)

Check expansion vessel pre-charge and check for water stains below the discharge end of the pressure relief pipe.

Shotgun! Yeah, neighbours, legality, blah..

We talking the boiler flue on the pitched roof or the terminal on the masonry chimmney? It would take a stork's nest worth of twigs to adversely affect safe operation of the former.

if you have cisterns in your loft i'd check the ballvalves shut off fully

Going bespoke like this is a tad risky in terms of future maintainance. It would be wise to hamster a few fittings and some pipe in case someone in ten or twenty years puts a nail through a pipe - no emergency plumber is likely to have the right gear on his van!

Photos would be helpful.

Manufacturers (and sellers) differ on this. Email a sketch to your supplier (plan view, from above) to eliminate uncertainty before ordering.

This, for example, claims to be fully free-standing https://www.edensteamshowers.co.uk/product/larvik-quadrant

your pic shows correct orientation

Can't tell from the photo if it's a PZ2, PZ3, PH2, or PH3 head but using the correct screwdriver will vastly increase your chances!

The Plus has two grey valves underneath.

Worth trying, IMO. Hammer it on.

long-reach socket

I disagree with most of the advice above. The existing fill valve is effectively a side-entry type clipped into a slot on the rear cistern wall, fed a by flexi from the internally mounted (and apparently moody) service valve. Probably 3/8" thread, almost certainly obsolete/unobtainable. Either...

Syphon/drop valve doesn't matter. All it needs is a syphon washer. What matters more is that your cistern appears to be close-coupled so the cistern has to be seperated from the pan. Sometimes they go back together easily and leak-free, other times you end up having to replace the...

As above, the ones that fail have usually been contorted/stressed.