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I can't agree Tony. Broadly speaking the more iinsulation goes between the rafters the greater the overall thickness needed to attain the reqiuired U value. Greater cost of wood, with more effort to install then more faffing around cutting strips of insulation.

Not relevant to OP but worth noting that many suppliers do 7foot panels: handy to get over a potential small end gap or an obstructed post location.

You'll generally find better prices at a decent timber yard. Eg recent purchase for SWMBO of simple rectangular section for her latest project. £7 plus in B&Q a tad over £5 at yard (small local but they stock Cellotex and plasterboard as well as wood and deliver free) B&Q do have a wider range...

Tha to me is the answer: the supplier of the new tiles won't guarentee the joint so you are at risk. This needs sorted now

Maybe the rad has wet toweks draped over it.

You don't really want to be drilling through the rebar. Better a bust bit than a bust lintel.

I would do my own check with Marley's technical chaps and unless they confirm it's fine get your man back to the job right.

The crack is minor and totally consistent with the history. No crack in plasterboard before you removed? The outside sealant looks fine, but if in doubt cut out and replace.

Didn't Frank Bruno advertise something for this way back when?

More info required: I assume you want to use the roof space fully if you're looking at attic trusses? How steep is roof? Rafter size requirement is affected by angle as well as length. I would expect attic trusses to span 8m without central support but they will likely need a crane to...

Is there a load bearing wall under the studs? The base plate seems to be set way down so there may be support provided by the studwork but those are huge rafters so not obvious quite what's going on. For peace of mind, I would get confirmation from your designer before you go any further

Then another coat will pick up the ones you missed!

Dare one suggest that a flat roof would be a safer bet for a DIY job: easier to construct and easier to seal up I also tend to think that very flat tiled roofs, even allowing for the use of the correct tiles, just don't look right. On the basis of learning though, why not go old school and get...

That's not a plasterer's work. I think its actually badgers not bears, Noseall. or maybe it's a regional thing.

I'd take an EPC of D as possibly a bit low but the notion that you could get to an A rating realistically strikes me as la-la land. You should probably talk to the offspring: it's them that will be selling it to put you in a home!

You have to assume load bearing, but framing out new openings is straightforward enough. BR? Strictly required but for a simple door most peeps wouldn't bother

BCs certainly push for it.

Don't over think it. Your new steel will support the joists and the wall above plus any roof loads acting on it will continue to be supported by the joists in compression as they arte now. This actually makes the job easier as you won't run the risk of loosening bricks bewtween the joists

Not unusual. I've seen places where the wall above was offset by 200 mm so the roof loads were actually inducing bending in the joists

I tend to agree with FMT but iff your slabs are really well bedded then you'll probably be ok. I would look very closely as I drilled the holes to see if there are any visible voids.