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It is a complete waste of money, a pointless legacy of the Home Information Packs that were introduced in 2007 in an effort to make the buying process less hazardous but the EPC's remained after the HIP's were abandoned in 2010 as they were totally ineffective. An EPC assessor is only paid about...

I've done that plenty of times with the kids scooter wheel bearings, which are a PITA to change. Just need to make sure you're all square to start with otherwise it's no fun trying to remove a bearing that's started to go in on the skew.

Depending on your browser you may have saved your password so if you find the saved passwords section on your browser it might be there.

Good idea, do you mean pour glue into the hole, only downside being the shelf cannot be removed again?

There are usually very specific rules for a drop kerb application, if it doesn't comply then permission will be declined so you should check it meets the criteria before applying. It's different to planning there is very little if any negotiation with highways.

Once you've bought the place then you can measure stuff and work a new staircase into the refurb, otherwise this is just a waste of time.

What's the question?

Are you sure that's the right model number, absolutely nothing comes up on google. And if it's really ancient then you'll be out of luck anyway more than likely as the manual would never have been saved as a PDF. Or do you mean Black & Decker? even so nothing comes up for that model number either.

That gap should be open at the top/under the flashing you intend to fit, to allow moisture to escape ideally with an insect mesh.

You don't need something like that but that is an ideal and attractive solution. To use the product I linked to you would do something like this: It's a very standard epdm roof edge solution.

You could simply use something like this: https://www.rubber4roofs.co.uk/metal-edge-trim-rubber-roofing If you want belt and braces you could lap a bit of epdm (or whatever the exact system your using) over the join/screw heads.

And where on earth is the ventilation gap behind the cladding?

I might be inclined to use a bit of timber underneath, fixed at the front with an angle bracket and fixed at the back with either a couple of screws into the end grain. Or you could use an angle there too. Or you could fix screws in through the top if you don't care about seeing the screw heads...

Does your lawnmower not have an air filter?

Check the air filter isn't blocked.

But does your BCO know where the front door is? Do the drawings demonstrate to the BCO the windows from each first floor bedroom are escape windows? If we have to ask then so does the BCO.

You don't seem to have front door anymore. Is it from the new entrance hall? Your plans don't show it properly.

You need to post the existing plans.

I don't see why, no different to painting treated cladding.

Or treat the cladding with a suitable fire retardant coating, though they need regular updating and BC have a tendency to resist such things, for obvious reasons. Or use Marley weatherboard cladding instead of timber. Your 'architect' should have thought of this already.