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To be honest I'm not sure what type of timber it is. The ground floor flats are well below street level, so rather than have a steep sloped lawn, the developer built a pathway and a couple of gravel terraces as you can see in one of the photos. Various sizes of timber have been used. I've no...

The sleepers topping a low wall are splitting and rotting. It's a communal garden and we don't want to pay the maintenance fee provided by the factor. What are our options? 1. Repair. Is it even possible? 2. Replace. Where can we buy sleepers? 3. Treat. How do we treat all the existing ones and...

Done and replaced. Was much easier than I anticipated. My only concern now is that's the only security on the door. I'm in a flat that does have a main door to the communal area but it's not always locked. Any suggestions on beefing up my flat's door security?

Hi. I can no longer lock my front door as the key will not turn in the lock. I haven't dismantled the lock, so I'm assuming it's a barrel type inside the main unit. I can lock the door from the inside using the thumb turn, which I also assume is fixed into one end of barrel. Can you please...

Someone who shall remain nameless caught the wing mirror on my car. It looked worse with the white paint transference, which I've managed to remove, but the scratches are still visible. I used a polish that I thought was more abrasive and I'm wondering if I can use something else. Any advice...

Not sure what you mean by matching heights. The new pb runs from floor to ceiling.

Thanks for all the advice, and especially about only using it for the picture frame moulding.

I'm looking for a 210mm mitre saw blade for making very fine clean cuts in picture frame moulding. Any recommendations?

I'm not doing the plastering. I'm rubbish at it. I've built the partition and sheeted it. I'll tape it ready for someone to skim it.

The specific area I mean is where the new plasterboard meets the existing wall, as in the photo.

I've just finished sheeting a stud frame partition and I'm about to cover the joins with scrim tape. My question is, do I apply it to the joins where the partition meets the existing wall and ceiling?

Job done. Thanks for all the help and advice.

Thanks. This is a really clear and helpful description.

I don't think I have any 1.5mm or 1mm T&E, so should I stick with the 13A fuse if using the 2.5mm into the light fitting?

Great. Thanks for the help. Is it OK to use the 2.5mm T&E between the FCU switch and the light fitting?

I can't locate a FCU, so I'll have to say it's unfused direct from the ring main.

I want to install a light in a cupboard I'm building. My plan was to spur off the existing socket to a 13A fused light switch. I say was, because I've just discovered that the socket is itself a spur. I've always thought that you can't spur off a spur, however I have read online that it's ok for...

I managed to get this looking much better with a bit of improvisation. I removed the bottom screw, which just created enough of a gap to allow me to wedge in wet wipes using a filling knife. The results are pretty good.

Great idea

I can get the sliding door out but I don't see how that will help me clean the mouldy mess between the fixed panel and bottom frame.