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At the risk of sticking my nose in where it doesn't belong. I believe:

A while back there was this thread about which boilers the pro's on here had at home: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/professionals-which-brand-of-boiler-do-you-have-in-your-home.565931/

Deleted, as no longer relevant.

Nylon screws are available, e.g (link): https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/fasteners-fixings/screws-bolts/machine-screws/?applied-dimensions=4294881404,4294474537 Obviously I'd suggest you discuss with your sparky whether (s)he'll replace the screws in your light switches as part of installing the...

I'm no expert but I'd be very surprised if the box couldn't handle the heat, it's not as if it's connected to an oven. However I'd probably try to make sure it isn't touching the dishwasher.

I've no personal experience of this, but I've heard that, long long ago, light socket usage was covered by the standing charge so she'd have got free electricity for the ironing.

I believe (I'm not a sparky) that that includes any exposed screws, e.g. (edit) visible screws holding a faceplate on need to be plastic (possibly nylon).

I think Harry is referring to the picture in the very first post, not to the picture that RF posted.

There's no absolute reason why the pipes from/to the boiler can't be tee'd off close to the boiler so that one radiator is, effectively, on its own circuit. However you might find that that radiator gets more than its fair share of hot water. As the others have said the radiator has to be on a...

Definitely. Please don't take the numbers in this condescending description as gospel; as an explanation, draw some water from the cold water tap, now heat it up to boiling point - you've put in a "dollop" of heat. Keep on heating it until it's all evaporated - that's taken 6 more "dollops" of...

Deleted as covered by other posts (I was too slow typing).

I agree the OP could have been clearer but he did say: He could well have meant "Existing socket has a spur ..."

Unfortunately it sounds as though the fuse you've pulled out is nothing to do with the heater. I can only suggest that you find the cable going into the heater and follow it back and hope to find a different fuse / switch which you can remove / switch off. Otherwise look in your CU (aka fuse...

I did consider that but my (extremely) cheap and nasty multimeter doesn't do AC current.

Many thanks for your speedy response.

There are plug-through (doubt whether that's the right word) RCDs available, an example (link): https://www.ryness.co.uk/13-amp-30ma-plug-in-rcd-adaptor-white In my minds eye I can see a Residual Current Meter looking something like (apologies for shadowy photo): but I can't find anything, am...

Just living down to my moniker: I'm absolutely certain Bernard meant "drying" ( d & f next to each other on keyboard).

Living down to my moniker. I assume Scousespark meant "The calculation is simply Ib <= In <= Iz".

In case this is helpful to anyone else. Swapping over the bits to prevent deadlocking from the outside (using the key) was easy. But I couldn't do anything about the snib; there was no obvious way of removing the snib button from the snib slider (inside the "shell"). Also, in this case, there'd...

Another thread has started up about when TMVs are needed: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/requirement-for-thermostatic-mixing-valves-tmvs.551603/