Search results

So get a refund off the first SE.

Have you checked how much delivery is, it's usually free if close but don't know if you are in the sticks.

The Pros will be along to answer no doubt but I've been using Dulux Trade Satinwood no problems for years, seems pretty durable and goes on nicely.

I've read recently that composite gets noticeably hotter than timber when in direct sunlight. But that wasn't based on doing any major research.

Looks fairly standard of the stuff that you get delivered, rough with the smooth and all that. Unless you take the time to go and sort out which bits of timber you want from the supplier. Maybe next time upload even more photos.

Is it a vent to the head of the run? Ask him.

Normally , or at least in the past (20 years or so), there would be a coax cable fitted from the living area up to the loft, then the new owner is expected to fit an aerial.

I'm not sure it has a name, just tile and brick coping. 'Tile creasing coping' maybe?

It will be heavy so might be helpful to have an assistant. But have you actually checked if taking the door off will be enough? How would taking the handle off help? Surely the pinch point is when then door is open - the gap between the open door on the left and frame on the right?

AFAIK you need to pop that cap off (1.47), then undo the four screws (2.29) for each hinge. Unless @crank39 or @ronniecabers know of an easier/better way.

It doesn't always have to, if the setting out permits it then a smaller stone on each end is fine too - subject to the copings on the end not being adequate. But that's irrelevant here in anycase.

Ahh I see now, looking on my phone I thought we were looking at the underside of the slates, jeez yes he needs to unravel it and make it right.

Without knowing the length of the run and size of the stones your only other choice in that situation (apart from having a 200 slither at one end) would be to cut every coping stone down a bit. Got a photo?

.

I think we can certainly draw some conclusions from these threads.

To be fair the OP does seem quite sure of himself, unlike some others.

I do like winding you up. Perhaps you should place the OP on ignore. The evidence is very clear.

The underlay is over the top, his terminology is incorrect.

For someone who claims to have no interest you sure are invested Mottie.

Think your terminology is wrong there, underlay is the roof membrane, which is correctly laid over the top of the eaves tray. What is lacking is the tilting fillet, the solid timber wedge shape bit of timber that would sit under the eaves tray/membrane and prevent this sag. Obviously the battens...