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I got a special value 7.5l tub of this paint last week. I have used it on a ceiling, and in certain lights you can see every roller line. They cant be felt on the ceiling, and when the light isn't hitting it the job looks decent. Have I picked a bad paint for this? Should I have used...

There is absolutely no issue with using 4mm T+E. Unless you move your oven out every other week to clean it, of course.

Mesh may be unnecessary, we didnt do it. But fit the UFH pipe inside 25mm tube 150mm each side of the transition so it can move

He's not logged in for 3 1/2 years......!

We did ours much like your first illustration. Of course until the building is rendered, water will track along the beam in either case. Looking end on at the beams, I found using concrete bricks with a generous bed of mortar filled the gaps between the block work below and the floor blocks...

I prefer these, as it's all in one: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ803.html (Say Ashley, but Hager ones are absolutely identical) They also do a 4-terminal one, useful for extending 2-way lighting.

Thoughts on PX Cables? That's what all 3 trade outlets in Jersey now stock... when mentioning TLC to them, they immediately say it's far better, and TLC cable may not even meet required standards (TLC 8 years ago sold Prysmian, but apparently their own brand these days).

Substitute the seal for a good load of CT1 sealant, worked well for me.

I did this today. 4 plasterboard screws from the board into the timber, and a generous helping of Sticks Like where it was covering the pebbledashed masonary. Seems nice and solid, so hopefully it doesn't crack :)

Yes, it's your home and so affects everything you do. But, you will get it resolved with a new builder and in a year or so all will be done, completed, and you will look back at the challenges from your new improved space, and it will seem far better. Trust me, I'm 2 1/2 years into a self...

A drainage plan would seem excessive, you just need someone competent to lay the drains properly, and it can then be signed off. As others say, you need to separate getting the house sorted from the old builder. Find someone to take on the work, and as a completely separate task try and get...

One of these would help: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003JTCONU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The half sink pipe can be reduced to nearly nothing, so the whole lot would be a reasonable amount higher.

I prefer the solid wall feel tbh....! Costs me a bit more I know....

I do have loads, the wall is going to need a coat of hardwall, so lipping some 9.5mm plasterboard onto the wall all around, with some Sticks Like behind, would be easy. Thanks for that…. I’d not even considered it and it should be great for preventing cracking!

Hi all, I am fitting some door linings into openings that used to have external doors in them, and are about 100mm too tall. What's the best way to fill the gaps, and avoid cracking? I was thinking of fixing a piece of timber in to the lintel (Avoiding the lining), and plaster boarding or...

And I forgot to attach the photo! Now added.

Good morning all, We had a 3 panel sliding door fitted 18 months ago, by Origin. I hadn't specified, but had expected it would be openable from inside and outside. I was mistaken! I was quoted £400 to supply an extra lever, and an escutcheon for the outside. (Plus a longer spindle and a riv...

This did happen in January as planned. I built some trays from old ply, and 2x1 timbers around the edge. Then glued some plastic sheeting in. These were placed either side of the doors - the cutting guys looked confused, and said it was futile.... but actually we did OK! It caught 90% of the...

I got one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154243075544 No idea how they make it so cheap, but it seemed good quality and is doing the job

I was told to use copper olives onto plastic pipe, as the brass ones are too hard and can cut into the pipe.