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What are you trying to do? The bigger the pipe the less fall required, generally.

No, the ROOM STAT terminal in the wiring centre. Top and bottom screws

No, remove wires out of room stat, leave programmer wires where they are. Do as countryfan suggests and add a link wire between 1 and 3 on the room stat. (where yellow and red are currently)

Ok, what I would do is replace your programmer with the hive receiver. It needs to be a dual channel receiver which from the screwfix picture looks like it is. Wiring as follows : Red - Live Blue - Neutral Green yellow - Earth Orange - 1 Yellow - 3 White - 4 Then inside your wiring centre...

This is for controlling the heating and hot water via the hive. With your current setup, your thermostat calls for heat but the hot water timings will be done via your programmer. If you want to have that control via the hive, it's going to be a little bit more complicated and we'll need the...

That would be to bypass the room stat entirely, he wants to use the hive as his new stat.

Good find, that's absolutely horrendous numbering. 1, earth, 2, 3? You should be able to replace your existing wall thermostat with the hive hub, or you could disconnect the connections at the wiring centre and place the hub near your centre (it talks wirelessly with the thermostat anyway)...

I'm not convinced, it says "if room stat not used, link 1 and 3". 2 or 3 is an earth core so, so if we'd have to assume blue is switched live unless they've wired it up with the earth. Really need to see the wiring in your existing room stat.

That's a nice tidy wiring centre. It will be the room stat terminals on the left, your hive hub will need a neutral and I can't see from the picture what each of those cores are labelled as - take a clearer picture. According to the pcb the inside of the lid you took off has instructions...

I think you're confusing yourself. Either of these options the plumber intends to fit by the hot water cylinder, therefore presumably boosting the hot water main as a whole. If you only want the pressure to the shower/bath boosted, then it pretty much needs to be an under bath pump, no? Now, if...

It's not a bath and shower at the same time though is it

Think the pumps been run dry? Maybe worth going smaller to reduce the water demand, ct50 looks like the smallest they do. Take it it's twin pump (hot and cold). 1.5 bar is still plenty if it's sited under the bath

Kooltherm with a cladding is another good choice

As madrab says you may need a larger radiator if you want to go column meaning the pipes would need moved. Personally, if you're changing the carpet anyway I'd have the drops upgraded to 15mm purely for aesthetics.

Personally I'd disregard that and use your existing t and e. Those screws have a square washer to clamp the cable so it's not necessary to wrap it (and would be quite difficult to do). Just make sure the outer sheath is clamped securely at the bottom, and double the earth over so it's not the...

@endecotp Thanks for the exercise, kept us entertained at least. A few comments on your diagrams. 1) I'm not sure what you've got in the right switch box there, but whatever it is seems a bit cheeky 2) Yep 3) Yep, that would work 4) That's genuinely very clever

If you read further up, he slated another poster for giving it a go and getting it wrong, I was just offering my own unconstructive feedback.

I think he means it didn't work, just being a cryptic nob about it.

It'd be in the conditions I reckon, doesn't say anything about not making links in the switch boxes. It definitely doesn't work as drawn though

Never mind I read it wrong, I think he's got it. Edit : No, it does swap both.