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Made me smirk but yeah slightly weird.

That video was perfect, totally answered my question, thanks. I notice he didn't wash with PVA before the first coat. I'm guessing that to aid breathability.

That is an impressive looking product I have to admit. In the end I did use an angle grinder. I got my wife to hold the hoover beside the area as I chased out. It wasn't too bad for dust in the end. I used an SDS chisel bit and a bolster for the rest. That was the tricky bit cos SDS is too...

I want to make good or pack out the plaster below the skirting line. There a couple of reasons why, I don't want 7" skirting. We're going to lift the floorboards and insulate (this is a ground floor, timber suspended) and I need a surface I can fix a membrane to. The existing surface would not...

I have a feeling that the bricks are not that robust. If you look at the image I attached, you'll see what I mean. I'm a bit worried that an SDS will crack or break the brick and leave me with a lot of making good to do. If I can cut the brick, I'll limit the potential damage. That's the theory...

Yes, mostly brick. Very old brickwork too so an angle grinder it is. In the past I just used a hammer and bolster but I'd rather not shred my knuckles. On the matter of dust, which has been a real pain so far and the wife says I've killed the hoover, has anyone used and these extra hands...

We moved home and I doing some renovating. I've a few backbones to fit, mostly into old brickwork. Some data, some electrical. I was going to do the prep before getting the sparks to complete the work. I thought the easiest and cleanest way to fit a back box would be with a multitool but when I...

I've removed the skirting and there's a 2-3" cavity. The skirting about 175mm high. We're not going higher than that. From floor to the where the plaster starts is about 150, so about 25mm overlap. The problem is the bare brick is in a torrid state and I wont be able to get a fixing into it...

Yes, I get you. Cut a bevel on the end that rests against the frame with the nail ensuring it stays a fixed distance. I wanted to say thanks for all the help and tips. It's been a great help. Thanks, Dermot

Let me see if I have understood. The timber is the length I'd like the revel to be at the point where the render meets the window. The nails are fixed at equal distance from each end and used to guide and keep the margin between the timber edge and the render equal. Then you run the timber...

Thanks for getting back to me. I think it's too late to remove that part of the render from the bead to the patch I've done. What I've done since is use a nail, wire brush and a bolster and tried to make as much of a key as possible on the painted surface. I'm concerned about the next coat...

Hi, I have just fitted a window and need to build out the outside reveals either side of the window by 5-10mm. I have already made good as much as possible around the window as I wanted to make it air-tight. The issue is that the reveal already has render around it that's been painted. At the...