Search results

21 is excessive....we've all gone soft over the last 30 years...average indoor temperatures were around 15 degrees up until the 90s. It doesn't take long to acclimatise to lower healthier temperatures.

This is a pointless discussion given the excessive room temperatures. Even a slight decrease in room temps will far outweigh any system twiddling to get the boiler condensing a little more.

When the boiler was serviced its likely the boiler pressure was topped using the green lever valve. The black plastic assembly is a backflow prevention device to comply with the water regulations and the threaded drain is part of the design. It is normal to have a little water drip from the...

The noise may be due to the differing expansion rates of the stainless steel front of the heat exchanger and the aluminium burner manifold that bolts to it....the grease alleviates the problem.

Did they put the grease around the burner threads and mating faces? It was supplied in a sachet along with the graphite burner seal. unless that changed.

Given it's age and the system I'd assume 60% efficiency (and it could be worse)...and a properly installed modern combi maybe as high as 95%. Should've been swapped out 20 years ago....it's so old it doesn't appear on the SEDBUK efficiency website (and that's decades old now). Completely...

Are you sure your parents have a combi and not a conventional/heat only or system boiler combined with a cylinder? I vaguely remember one combi model many years ago that had the ability to share the heat output simultaneously between heating and hot water depending on hot water load...but I may...

It's a combi boiler and that's how they all work. If your home is loosing so much heat in the time it takes for a shower you've got some serious heat loss issues.

It should normally be left in the auto position..manual is only used for draining & refilling the system. Sounds like you still have a problem...so call them back.

The room stat just tells the motorised valve to open on a heat demand. Once the valve opens it operates a switch inside to command the boiler to fire up. A valve stuck open will keep the boiler on regardless of the thermostat setting.

More likely a motorised valve sticking on...

Have a look in the F&E cistern...I guarantee most have a molehill of sludge from poor installations.

They're both poor and out of date layouts. With modern boilers and the minute waterways why would you not have a sealed system?

Just remember there is no such thing as a refurbished pump..just used and secondhand and a lottery.

The valves often seize...they should be excercised every 6 months say. See if they'll shift with pump pliers but if the expansion vessel hasn't been checked for a year I'd be checking that first for air pressure.

Have an electric shower on standby. When your combi packs in at Christmas and you have no hot water or heating you'll appreciate it. Personally I think your priorities are wrong and a combi is a really bad idea for such a large house. Installers will shove in whatever suits them and of course...

Probably trapped air in a redundant hot feed pipe or elsewhere in the domestic pipework. These should be cut out for compliance.

Nothing is standard with hob sizes..all down to luck.

That's the rating at high temperatures but you design accordingly. Electrolytics can last a 100,000 hours and more.

That component is a 1mH choke....I suggest you chuck the lot in the bin. Most of that board operates at lethal voltage and given the comments so far, any attempt at repair would be ill advised.