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Agree. I’ll randomly give you a guesstimate figure of about £350 ballpark which it might cost. It wouldn’t be that much less, if you went for just a skim

Not sure there are many other options? Your additional 300mm will get you better than most houses. Not sure what the condensation concern is.

You wouldn’t need to fill. As long as you do a decent job of boarding it (right direction across the joists, stagger the boards, enough screws, gaps no more than about 8mm ish) any plasterer would be good to go.

It’d be easifil, and they’d need to be tapered edged boards. I wouldn’t go that route, and pay someone a couple of hundred to skim it instead.

Is it vented at the top? Probably needs to be, that’ll reduce chance of it pulling the gulley

I thought that, but then realised the photo is taken in the (converted) loft.

That looks like a leaking roof, not condensation, and totally unacceptable to tell you to wait until March!

Sorry, I was talking about the upstairs bit. Overflow to left of bricked up bit. Missed the downstairs part

Looks like an old overflow from a toilet cistern, at that height. It wouldn’t be causing foul smells.

The thread title got me interested, but I misunderstood. Local facebook pages is a good shout, often people want rid of it. Or grab hire companies can often offload it.

If you weren’t clear what 6x4 meant, I guess the builder could claim it’s the overall footprint including things like soffit/gutter/roof overhangs which it probably will be

It’d be 12.5mm yes, but removing the lath and plaster is a very messy and unpleasant job. Many, many ceilings in houses like that are overboarded lath and plaster, it’s a very common system, so I’d say yes to removing the existing boards, but do a proper job (not hard, use the right length...

As above, pointless using postcrete, unnecessary cost, just buy bags of ballast and cement, as it’s cheaper you can be more liberal with how much you get too, often end up with bigger holes to fill than planned due to adjustments etc

That stone/conc cill needs a drip groove under it, may not have one, or the dashing has covered it. I’d seal the underside of it, as well as the whole perimeter of it against the dashing, and see if that resolves it

Yep.

I sand and cement rendered mine, never cracked in 10 years, I like the subtle look and clean edge against the plaster.

While I agree plonking walls on floorboards isn’t great generally, I can’t really see the downside in this context. It’s all glued down and never coming up anyway so just forms a single structure.

And if doing a), cut back the bonding along the bead aris a little bit before skimming

As above, but I’d personally always do a). Slightly better job imho, can get the bead bang on plumb at that stage and not rely on dubbing out a skim bead

Or cut a bit of batten a couple of inches longer than the hole, fix it across the top of the hole either by glueing or a couple of screws up into it, then screw the piece onto it