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Birdsmouth? They can look alright, but that one looks like it’s such a wide angle that you end up with those unsightly bed joints. Probably how it’s meant to be done tho.

Can’t see any harm just stud walling over the boards. Can still have their expansion gaps at the perimeter etc and less cuts/gaps to foam. Assuming the t&g boards are fixed to the joists not floating on an insulation layer

Yeah, normally whoever’s fitting it prices in dropping a liner down as part of the job

It may be either way, but if it’s still trapped, so there’s no air flow between left and right, as @Hugh Jaleak says, you’re ok. I thought it wasn’t, but probably got that wrong.

Yeah, and the bottle gulley may not be needed?

Ok to bed the gulley on pea gravel and the end bit of the aco, but if that’s a soil pipe on the right, won’t you get smells coming up from the aco? I think those 2 way bottle gulleys will only trap the middle part as it’s got the dip tube and the trap level sits below both horizontal pipes. May...

The way it’s been done isn’t necessarily wrong, as said, it’s just more of a pain as the outer beam has to be protected/wall has to be re-finished around it and made to look right. Potentially better approach is to have a flat plate for the outer skin, then the outer masonry just sits on that...

You could chuck more gravel down, but if whole thing isn’t on a decent compacted sub base (suggests it’s not when you say the gravel’s being pushed down into a softer base) you’ll continue to have issues. Proper job is to remove existing gravel, see what the base is, if it’s not solid like at...

Exp foam isn’t appropriate to stop water ingress. How’s the beam on the outer skin protected from the elements? Normally you’d have a beam on the inner and a flange on outer welded to it

Hygroscopic salts are fairly common on chimney breasts, which’d need a different system to the bonding and skim. Maybe dehumidifier for a few more weeks and if no change likely needs a rethink for that bit.

Good shout, but

This one’s AI, if you look at its post in GD also. Joined the forum today. Mods, please delete…

They wouldn’t be directly fixed to the brick/block though. They’d be on whatever the substrate to be skimmed was. As they’re only skim beads. So board, or backing plaster (hardwall, bonding, render etc)

Stitch it away with a masonry (SDS) drill. 6mm ish bit, lots of holes, then a chisel to break it up

The square cover might be an untrapped rodding point, which would mean you can’t just stick a grid on as you’d get smells coming up. Can’t quite work out where the slabs come into it if you’re having gravel? Can you just build the lower corner up a bit with some mortar and cause it to drain off...

Given the era and fact that the hairs look long, sounds more like old horse hair plaster. Which figures if it’s been applied to laths (the metal stuff). So fingers crossed. But yeah, get it tested so you know. And asbestos danger is really related to prolonged repeated exposure like handling it...

They tend to need a few mechanical fixings in addition to the dabs.

While I’m not disputing that it’s a potentially grey area, and it’s your house so you want to do the best possible thing, my take on it is there are tens of thousands of 30s places which will have insulated/non insulated dabbed solid walls and are absolutely fine. There will be loads being done...

Wind up thread