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Ok with the right fixings… 50kg TV?!

50mm screws. That’s the whole point of battening it, they take the load. Although given they’re celcon blocks, a 70mm or whatever screw would just fire straight into it so not an issue either.

Just speak to local installers, vast majority of the time it wouldn’t be needed

Cheers all, will redo it.

Yeah, exactly. Better explanation than I gave. Just checking there isn’t anything wrong with it even if it’s a bit unnecessary.

Cheers. Yeah, it has a timer. As far as I can see, this meets the requirements. Just never seems to be done like that that I’ve seen.

I’ve never found any reference to this way of wiring a fan isolator and timer fan (no lights involved, just a switch to control the fan). I can’t see anything fundamentally wrong with it, but please correct me if that’s not the case. Connected to fused 5a feed. All Earths connected where...

I doubt the clips alone are causing that? Is it not just a lot of run off from the dormer side/upper roof and the pitch being low causing it to overspill the verge?

yeah, it’s solid 6mm cement board. No washers. All good.

Deffo seems to be adhesive, and no washers

Local grab hire/aggregate places may do a swap of taking away existing and bringing new topsoil. Ground workers for if stuff needs moving around/levelling etc. Theyre also likely to have contacts for the grab.

Cheers all. 6mm notched trowel ok for the addy onto the ply, or skim it thin?

The headlap on those tiles looks absolutely tiny if I’m seeing the pic right

Nice one, ta.

I’ve laid a 18mm wbp ply bathroom floor with all board edges meeting on joists. Before tiling I’m going to lay 6mm cement board glued and screwed down to the ply. Am I right in thinking, 1) the backer boards edges don’t need to meet on a joist, and the screw length only needs to be enough to hit...

It wouldn’t be my first choice either, but some trays MI’s specify it.

I think most people use rapid set. Or silicone, or even exp foam. I’ve always used mortar, but will probably go rapid set on the next one.

Cool, I’m very tempted to do this then: Offer tray up, check it’ll sit level on some rapidset or silicone or whatever the instructions say Tank walls, all the way down to floor, only use tape on wall corner When tanking dry, thick beads of stixall on walls and tray pushed tight to them and...

I’m going on the assumption that the solid silicone layer between tray side and wall is permanent and impermeable. I can’t recall ever seeing silicone under compression disintegrate much, but yeah if it did it’d be an issue.

Yeah, that’s what I’ve always done. I’m always keen to make life easier though, and am tempted by @noseall method above. Saves the faff of masking the tray etc.