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Perhaps the screws are driven at an angle because there is a hard stop at some depth shorter than the screw For example you can drive a 120mm screw at 45 degrees into a 100mm piece of wood that’s screwed to a wall, but if you try drive it in at 90 degrees, it will stop after sinking 100mm...

Angle grinder next time; the resin discs don’t suffer, and the metal dust bridging the cores makes a lovely coloured flash as the breaker pops

Finally found the detail I was after in all those pics EUR350 difference between 600 rafters and 400 rafters. Buttons in the grand scheme of things.. But if your calcs say 600 will be fine, go for it Maybe cost in the extra for thicker battens and see how it settles out

Be reet. If you’re bothered, cut some 2x3 noggins to the width, load with glue, pass through the hole and screw in place through the chipboard, near to the noggin ends. Pre drilling the chipboard so the screw is loose in it with help the joint pull tight. Self reaming screws like Screwfix turbo...

Trying to work out how this witty name modification is the intended insult. Alleging he has draughty windows maybe? Genuine question

Sounds like you have multiple pipe close together and close to wall? Go round the whole lot with a sheet of insulating material (tuck it down the back, wrap it up the front and tape together

That was a snip

So, it’s EUR1850 for 600mm centres, meanin it’s what.. 2K for the extra materials required for 400mm centres? It’s buttons, in the grand scheme of things

when you say the screws won’t tighten, what kind of driver are you using to determine this

I do sometimes wonder how (if) you actually ever get anything done, John Never have I known someone drive a conversation in such circles, exploring every inanity I don’t particularly mind what you do to resolve this latest first world problem you’ve fallen into, but I don’t think your “I never...

Don’t ask us, ask the DVLA Were I in this situation I’d just contact a place that makes show plates and ask them for show plates that look exactly like normal road plates, Charles Wright font, legal spacing etc. they will be happy to oblige

and then spend more x thousands putting 100 between and have it 0.02 lower again Spending time and money on air tightness detailing is usually better these days; the insulation regs are good enough, but have long been let down by overly permissive draughtiness

In other news, 2 years on @kingandy2nd gow did you find the decision to purchase? Have you since sold it? How much did it cost vs hiring? I lost a grand I think, on my JCB, over a 5 year period building my own home. It was incredibly useful and well worth it, but a bit big for some jobs. Still...

Most be some whopping span on those rafters

Ive got one, it’s somewhere near the centre of the large discoloured patch of osb I can see from the inside

Didn’t realise you were married. Congratulations

Why not just repair it with a patch of uncured EPDM? https://www.rubber4roofs.co.uk/epdm-roof-repair-kit

At least it will be easy to remove for the do-over. Have you paid him?

Rivet/screw some stop bead on: The frame needs to be really secure to the jambs otherwise the slamming of the door will crack the render; perhaps a construction adhesive between frame and block where it is screwed to the block Or soften the closing with a damped door closer Alternatively...

One of these things is true :D:D