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A 2p coin usually works well as a tool for the central screw

Try nipping them up with a pair of grips. Hand tight is probably ok on the low pressure inlets but not enough on the high pressure outlet side Maybe a silly question but did you put the rubber sealing washers in?

Site rules don't allow gas related advice on the open forum. Safe to say though that your boiler is seriously unwell. Depending on its age, there may be warranty on some parts so get Worcester out to look at it. They would probably want to see a full service record though. Working inside the...

Were you using copper or brass olives? The copper ones are softer and can usually be persuaded onto 1/2" pipe.

The float on this one is enclosed in its own chamber so catching on the cistern is not usually an issue as it can be with valves like the fluidmaster.

The fill valve is height adjustable. Here are the manufacturers instructions. https://www.free-instruction-manuals.com/pdf/pa_3320487.pdf Can be a bit fiddly removing and refitting the clip. Best to turn off the water before starting.

That's what I'd do. (y)

Looks more like it may be leaking through where the sink seals against the underside of the worktop.

I've just retired as a plumber/heating engineer but I remember that one of my first self employed jobs after leaving college was replacing the siphon and fill valve on a close coupled toilet. It seemed that everything that could go wrong, did go wrong. Don't remember how long it took but it...

Looks like a redundant fitting which could be removed. I would also get the bodged up sink waste replaced as this is also likely to be a leak source. Fitting a good quality sink waste/trap correctly is not difficult but I've always been amazed at how many are done badly even by professionals...

They will need trimming back a bit further or maybe the pipes will push back before tightening. Anyway, it looks like the job is unfinished. Not unusual to leave the pipes a bit long until final fix.

Any weather compensation fitted? This would provide a lower flow temp when external temperature is higher.

As I remember, the default anti cycle time on these is 20 minutes. What happens is that the boiler fires up and produces a rapid temp rise and shuts down. It then waits 20 minutes and repeats. Can't remember the parameter to change but its in the manual. Try reducing to 5 minutes combined with...

Bayonet fitting is self sealing when hose is removed and is an accepted method of cooker connection. No extra isolation valve is required. The installer should have tested for gas tightness during commissioning so all should be ok.

There are ways to overcome condensate drain problems but a bigger issue may be flue options for a modern room sealed boiler. Get some companies in to quote and see what options they can come up with for repositioning. Unlikely to be feasible to keep same location.

Pretty sure it comes with a nut and olive. Certainly looks like it from the picture.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-1-2-bsp-male-taper-x-15mm-compression-81mm-chrome-radiator-valve-extender/384fw Its a rad valve extender but will do what you need. Connect to iso valve with compression nut and olive. Says it can't be cut to size but yeah you can.

Different thicknesses, different sized holes, sizes which seem to make little sense. Bristan should be able to supply the correct ones but may be easier to buy a selection box from a plumbers merchant.

FYI, those speedfit iso valves are not designed for heating systems. They are not rated for the sustained high temperatures or the chemicals and impurities in the water. They will almost certainly leak if used in the future and may well start to leak without being used.

It looks like a self cutting drainage spigot that has been attached to the waste pipe. It is obviously not being used anymore so should be capped or preferably got rid of. If you just remove it you will leave a hole in the pipe so it would be best to replace that section of waste pipe.