Search results

There is a problem when combining a programmer with thermostat, when using C Plan, Hive has a workaround, Wiser does not, and if the com terminal is not internally connected, as with Nest you can also use them. But with just a programmer, the setting for C plan simply stops you selecting CH...

This is exactly what I have found, I am sure if I pressed the button enough times I would get the right readings. As said it is not that important to me, as the app is telling us what has been used or exported, but if I had to give the reading to someone else, having a smart meter is hassle I...

Yes, agreed, so if an electrician is asked to do an EICR, and it does not cover what the law requires, what then? Electrician has done his job.

May be, I will go down and push the two buttons, and never seem to get the same results twice. To be frank, not that worried, the app tells me what I need to know, and I have the solar software which seems to confirm the readings are correct. But, why fit a hard-to-read meter if you don't...

Basic answer is yes. All needs testing and inspecting, but we have special rules for in-service electrical equipment, so if it comes under the inspection and testing of in-service electrical equipment then it does not also come under electrical installation condition report even if installed...

I would never use built in washing machine, tumble drier, fridge, freezer, microwave, etc. Maybe built in oven and hob, as that gets the oven at a more useable height, but even then, my standalone cooker, has closed door grilling, etc. Which uses over 16 amps, and most ovens which are built in...

That will take a lot of reading. When I came to do my own central heating, I realised there were errors, so it was down to make a plan of what I had. The timer already shown, had a 230 volt supply, and a triple and earth cable red, yellow, blue, which went down into the flat where the boiler...

To my mind:- Anything which needs a tool or key to move it is fixed. Unless it has wheels, over 18 kg is fixed. As to installation and equipment, I would add the words current-using, so the installation old supplies current to current-using equipment. In the main, the installation does not...

But how does this change the question, smart meter or not? I was also asked by British Gas, and in the end realised I needed one to be paid for export, but other than that, the change has just meant I can no longer read the meter. I know how much I am using with the app, but down to...

I know E7 existed, and I know how it should have been wired, but in real life, only seen a white meter once in my Uncle Trevor's house. And so long ago, no idea how it was wired. As @SUNRAY has said the split was before the meter, when using the white meter, clearly not with Henley blocks, so...

My smart meter 5 inches wide, and 7 inches wide, but needs another 4 inches below it to have a reasonable curve for the cables. My old meter this type and there was not enough room to change it. Other items on the board had to be moved first, but I wanted a smart meter to be paid for export, so...

Not quite, it depends on the ballast used. With a single tube and a magnetic ballast yes, easy to simple swap. However once you go to electronic ballast and twin tubes not so easy. Also even with a magnetic ballast, the ballast acts as a resistance, so typically a 58 watt fluorescent is replaced...

I have a controller for the immersion heater, and as you infer it would be better with a simple time switch, but that is because of the tariff I am on, where off-peak costs less than I get for solar. As to photo/PIR cell, I do have a rechargeable torch at top of stairs with a photocell, and...

I installed my wife into the dinning room, when she had her knee done to save her doing the stairs, temporary, but felt she would need to turn the light on/off from in the bed. So I got a Tapo light switch, and a magnetic back button saved all the wiring with two-way switching, but the button...

Yes at £8 each, having a timer built into the fan would be cheaper. But the timer is not built into the fan. 12 Ah at 48 volts = 576 Wh but used 507 Wh which points to the battery not being 576 Wh. But one cost £10 and four worked out at £8 each, so was worth getting the group of four.

Well charged and switched off. The other graph interesting, but seems a lot of money to draw a graph.

It seems likely I was correct, to see power used like this, does help to work out what was used. Max the motor can produce is 350 watts, seems likely I produced 250 watt, but max speed limited by gear ratios, around 12 MPH is my sustained speed, but motor could easily get to 20MPH, at help level...

I see 16 amp MCB marked garage, and a 32 + 6 amp MCB in the garage, this should not be the case. With caravans (often a 16 amp supply) I have seen the 6 amp after the 16 amp, so the 16 amp takes the whole load, and also 10 amp and 6 amp but to put a 32 amp MCB fed by a 16 amp is daft. I will...

The zigzag config was done a lot at one time, it was common for a generator to have 12 windings, these could be arranged to give 55-0-55, 230, or 380 volt phase to phase. The use of just one phase, would depend on which phase the regulator monitors. That is if you have a regulator, control...

More about switching them off. The old fan I bought on holiday in Spain has a built-in timer, and would switch off after time set. All the new ones seem to not have timers, and to direct the air around the room the whole fan turns, where old one, had a disc with directors which moved where the...