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Usually not no - have I seen it - yes but it's very rare. The trouble with using too much solder is avoiding it being drawn internally and then causing a restriction to the flow. Hence the reason to only flux the pipe and not the fitting, that avoids flux being pushed into the fitting and then...

The rule of thumb we were taught - length of solder to use = the size of fitting - i.e. ~ 22mm of solder for a 22mm end feed fitting. The other thing we were taught was pressure test - once a run is installed then pressure test it - Copper pipework = maintain 1.5 x max working pressure for...

Any work to do with the UV safety devices should be performed by a qualified engineer that would include the main EV. The EV take off positioning is fine on the cold feed to the cylinder, as it's there to absorb expansion from the HW cylinder, it doesn't have to be from the take off point on the...

Certainly, shouldn't be any need for a PRV on the mains if there is another PRV in the CG if all hot and cold is taken from the UV and the balanced feed, sometimes though that isn't the case, not sure with this system. There could be other outlets fed from the mains, not from the balanced side...

Exactly - It will tell use one thing - if it is a valve in the Control Group that's creating the knock and yes the cold feed will still be balanced by the PRV @ the mains. Lots of time spent on this and it's probably time to find the culprit IMO. Easy enough to run through a process of...

Trying to see this correctly - re the video of the gauge - there's one knock when the tap is opened and the water runs then another when the tap is shut and the water stops? Not really - there probably isn't anything wrong with the valve in the control group, if it is being impacted by a...

It really does sound like the group's PRV is knocking, bypass it and see if it stops.

That is peak flow but if this is to be a HMO then you want to know dynamic pressure and flow to ensure the mains can handle multiple outlets running @ full flow @ the same time. Run at least 2 CW outlets whilst filling the container from a 3rd. If you have an outside tap then connect a...

Ah OK , should have checked back on the pic, that's the issue. Given the bath waste is downstream of the basin waste run, the slug of water from the basin emptying is rushing past the bath waste at the tee - given the basin waste is also 40mm at that point, that then creates a venturi effect and...

Is the bath trap definitely getting syphoned, or could it be getting blown? The anti vac valve should certainly be stopping the basin creating a vacuum when draining and then pulling on the trap, or is the basin upstream on the run?

The valve bodies themselves should be standard 1/2" bsp valves - the key parts with them are the splines size (diameter and height) and the number of splines. So measure and count them, then go online. If they are Bristan then they should take the Bristan valves. If not then they may be one of...

Most pro's I know use McAlpine, myself included. Where do those 2 pipes comes from, are then connected to another part of the tray? Can you take a pic of the whole tray from up top and a closer one around the trap below, where it meets the tray? The waste section of the trap inside the tray...

If it is mains fed hot and cold, then they will all work adequately well, size of feeds dependent. Even copper all the way up with push fit 15mm>3/4" tap connectors would work (edit) just as well What is the proper, pro way though, that's a whole other question all together ;) But sometimes...

If you hold it onto the pipe say a metre or 2 away and then at the valve there should be a noticeable difference.

Wouldn't matter - if you are in the right location you will hear the difference, use that method all the time to locate a problem valve anywhere on a pipe run

It's one of these that's in there and it's been over cut so doesn't seal properly To minimise any increase in height when using a double socket and waste pipe adapter then you could use one of these - Polypipe 110mm adapter - then it just needs a rubber 40mm boss adapter

Post a pic of what's there once it's all removed

As suggested - if you hold a large screwdriver onto each part of the control group and create the knock then it will be very apparent what components is knocking. NRV's are very simple valves with a very light spring holding them so I would be quite surprised if it was that creating that level...

Sure does - hammer will be created when the water goes from still to moving to still again. It's the abrupt water stop/start movement that creates the pressure wave. As water doesn't compress then that shockwave will travel along the water until it dissipates, that can be when it hits a valve...

+1 - the mixer cartridge in the top has it's own integral seals that are part of it, only option is to replace it.