Search results

..... if it is a shallow bath trap then it would have been fine as long as the hopper was there, if the hopper is now gone then it really should go to a 50mm seal.

Yeah - sure is - but if they have them in a kit then you would think they would be able to get them individually, unless the kits are all made up and they still have them lying around probably because they are so pricey

Yup - sure did - it would suggest the capacitor is bad - not that it can't hold its charge any more rather it cant release the energy burst when needed now, to kick start the motor. So it could read fine but just doesn't behave properly any more. If it was me then as long as the capacitor was @...

The straight through Mcalpine Antivac trap linked to should do the job and avoid having to do any major surgery anywhere else. Unfortunately a HEPvO won't make any difference, the vacuum created in the waste run by the basin draining down is what's pulling on the trap in the bath and that needs...

Yeah, I know what you mean - last thing is to see the wrong component do the pump in. Strange though - they seem to still do the service kit (28474) for the N series pre2008 pumps - and it seems to have the right capacitor in it. Obviously you don't need the whole kit at that price but you...

Anything downstream of the main stop tap (toby) at the end of the communication pipe or sometimes at the boundary, would be the homeowners responsibility. If your builder damaged the pipe on your property then it would be their/your responsibility to have it repaired If it isn't a shared main...

There will be an allan key grub screw in there - just need to find the right size. 2 >3mm usually

Try an anti vac trap on the basin, that should vent the run enough to stop it syphoning the bath.

You would think that ST would use similar capacitors in their later pumps, aint broke don't fix it type idea. I believe more modern 10uF capacitors ahould work without issue though surely? as long as it's the same μF rating then the motor shouldn't know the difference? Not an electronics chap...

If the cast iron is now redundant then cut it flat and then chisel it back so it is recessed, then fill it with insulation or some other filling material, or even a brick and then seal it right up with morter. Ideally it would be chopped and then the whole pipe chiselled right out and then the...

So you will be sealing the edge of the bath to the final wall covering and that covering is cladding? I'm not sure what's meant by cladding here, cladding is usually exterior and made up of vertical T&G panels and the widest of them are usually around 250>300mm, you do get interior panel of...

;)

Has the click clack plug snapped off? If it has you may find that the click clack mechanism might screw out of the waste, if so then you may be able to replace it with one the same same thread size. That being said it doesn't look the correct shape at the top to be removable.

Cant - It's push fit. Not enough pipe coming out from the wall, can the pipe from inside be pushed out more and then clip the pipe internally and externally to stop it from moving. That being said it's not the right pipe for outside work, it's push fit and as such is PP plastic that isn't UV...

Dependent on how the water is actually supplied, i.e the farm is on a single main and then the houses are branched off that supply, then the farm will be metered anyway as non domestic. The usage will be calculated on the farms mains meter as they will probably be charged as non domestic, with...

The water tight seal isn't normally created on that side of the waste - it's usually created on the underside of the waste by the thick washer in between the nut and the bottom of the bath. If there is a weep underneath then ensuring the base of the bath at the waste hole is nice and clean and...

If the mains is 1.8bar with one outlet open but the flow rate is 4L/Min then there must be a restriction in the supply somewhere. If the dynamic pressure is 1.8bar then the supply should be delivering much more than 4L/Min, unless the supply is on an excessively long run of 15mm pipe. If the...

Unless your dynamic mains pressure is really good then their flow can suffer with the small waterways they use inside, what is basically, a standard sized tap body.

Whilst an extractor may help - the best thing you can do, once the shower is finished, is open the door a bit and keep the window open until the room clears and cools down, natural ventilation is the best approach. Have the window open whilst showering to allow the steam a path to escape. Also...

ABS solvent weld plastic has an OD of 43mm - usually compatible with PVC as both can be glued though PVC does come in imperial and metric sizes - PP push fit plastic has an OD of 40mm. ABS and PP - for some reason - are both called 40mm or 11/2" PVC waste pipe sizes are rarely used in domestic...