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Put your microwave over it . Your more expensive alternative is to opt for solid walnut, you can get 4m lengths in that. I've got solid walnut in my house and one length is 4m.

Forming either a straight or 90° joint won't be a problem for a kitchen fitter or joiner. In the case of a straight joint to fit your 4m length the adjoining ends will be cut back and more than likely trimmed with a router to provide 2 perfect edges. In fact this worktop has a 3mm walnut veneer...

Since you'll be using Hardibacker it will be fixed with adhesive and screws so I wouldn't worry about priming the chipboard. Prime the Hardibacker prior to the UFH and you'll get the mat to stick down better. Also prime the levelling compound before tiling. Your adhesive will be fine. It's...

For your floor personally I wouldn't tile directly onto any wooden substrate, even marine ply. I'd fix 22mm P5 moisture resistant chipboard and overboard with 6mm No More Ply or Marmox boards. Alternatively you could lay 22mm No More Ply tongue and grooved boards straight onto the joists and...

Yes that all sounds fine. If you want better performance and faster warm up times from your UFH you could use insulation boards such as Marmox instead of Hardibacker, 10mm would be fine. Remember to prime each layer with tilers primer before starting the next. The UFH mat doesn't need laying in...

If your floor is free from flex and the floorboards are flat then overboarding with 6mm No More Ply or Hardibacker is fine (follow the instructions). As for your walls plasterboard is a very good surface to tile onto as long as you tank the area which is likely to get wet around your bath. The...

I shouldn't worry too much about it. When you tile there'll be a compressed bed of around 4-5mm of adhesive anyway. But if you think the bubble is too high then release the air and squash the nick back together. The butyl rubber back is mega sticky and will re-seal. Good luck.

My guess is that the bottom row is from a different batch of tiles and the difference in shade wasn't noticed prior to fitting.

As motobiking says, P5 moisture resistant T+G chipboard flooring would be ideal. Make sure there is no movement or bounce in your floor before fitting though. Overboard with either 6mm No More Ply or Hardibacker, glued and screwed as per each ones instructions. Tile using flexible adhesive.

Good quality jigsaw, plunge saw, sliding mitre saw. And a good first fix and second fix hand saw.

When cutting tiles with an angle grinder it is important not to force the cut. A quality diamond blade designed for the correct tile type will usually remove material without exerting too much pressure. Most of the time the weight of the tool is enough to make the cut. Make several passes and...

Paramount board is a pain but quite easy to deal with. Remove the plasterboard skin followed by the cardboard honeycomb. Be careful at this stage because the wall will have lost much of its strength. Build yourself a new frame ensuring it's all perfectly flat and plumb and use expanding foam...

Have you installed your tray level? In order to achieve the correct gradient into the waste the edges of the tray must be fitted level, not leaning towards the back wall or in any other direction. Your waste pipe can affect flow rates and 40mm pipe should have been used, again with attention...