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If you try and kick that back into the bar, use plenty of spray contact adhesive first to glue the underlay to the floor and to help the carpet grip the top of the underlay. Or use a wider profile, perhaps a piece of scrap oak, or you can buy a profile from Treadplates UK to butt against the...

If you have the skills to face the exposed area with thin boarding/mdf etc you could then fill and paint which may be easier than trying to sand and fill the area as it is at present?

There’s is no point in screwing, just use the right glue and save yourself a whole load of time.

The UFH product will specify what the manufacturer recommends but in short the vinyl will need a stable firm surface, nothing spongy etc.

You cant install Solid wood with an Underlay. You should only install an underlay if you are floating a Engineered Wood, Laminate or LVP floor. The correct way to install this will be to 6mm SP101 Ply the floorboards and glue the solid wood to the Ply with wood floor adhesive. You'll only be...

The vinyl will need to be 10mm above the UFH mat. How you enclose the mat will depends on the specs of the UFH If you are retaining the traditional heating in the space, vinyl is quite warm to the touch etc, I'm not so sure you'll see much benefit in such a small space, it will also cause...

I'd lift the old carpet etc, thoroughly bleach the floor and let it air, and if the tiles are good/flat, lay the sheet vinyl direct for now, use spray adhesive to perimeter fix. This should be fine until you choose to replace the whole lot in the future. If you can get a particular Sheet vinyl...

How wonky are the asbetsos tiles?

You'll need 6mm Flooring Grade SP101 Ply , fix with ring shanks and then feather all the joints and heads. Then glue the LVT on-top. If you are laying the LVT Herringbone, we would Mapei Renovation 3mm Coat Screed over the ply instead of feather.

It will be laid on a spongy carpet and not be attached to anything, of course it will move and amplify movement of the laminate.

Yes, that’s how they are designed, they have expansion gap all round the outside, however, your proposal will cause the floor to flex up and down and expand/move across and around the space

The OSB will move on the carpet, the Laminate will move on the Underlay, together they’ll move twice as much at least than if the Laminate was fitted correctly. Not only will it bounce, it will move all over the room as it’s a floating floor.

The whole thing will wobble like a jelly.

How were you planning on fixing the OSB down?

30+ Years in the professional flooring trade, but what would I know right?

You’ll need a screed coat to level the floor and dip over the crack bridge to take the worst of the dip out and of course the gap between the conduit and the concrete, when this dried, it will sink/dip/slump in these areas, then you’ll want a final coat screed to actually level the whole floor...

They are knackered, see if you can get a remnant piece of vinyl, preferably with a felt backing and lay it over the top.

The correct way to deal with this is to lay Uzin Crack Bridge around the conduit where it joins the concrete and then lay two 3mm coats of Mapei Renovation self levelling screed. Anything else you do will allow this to show at some point in the future, although minimal prep has the bonus of...

You can buy really nice quality V4 Alpine click engineered. for those prices.

The. Jenny, you need to do some research on what’s involved in digging out the entire subfloor of the property and re-building it from the ground up, compared to what I have suggested, which would achieve pretty much the same thing, unless, you have rising damp.