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I could not bother with the LM393 comparator … and instead use a simple 741 op amp

Taken suggestions onboard Now it looks like this sketch I know I need to use current limiting resistors for diodes ... not sure if I need any diode protection for relays, normally add an IN4148 across the coil. Existing physical switches are unchanged just now driving relays as per suggestion...

Its DC 0 to 12V

need it to activate display from 1V to 12V ... hence a comparator was my thought.

Agree and I could use a fixed 12V for the relays, that would resolve switch issue, still have to detect that there is voltage to fan …. And that can be anything from 0 to 12V I thought of a voltage parameter … but happy if a simpler way.

It’s on the sketch …. The controller is not important, it provides a power voltage as explained … 0 to 12V to the fan This feed is a simple 2wire output, with the 2 switches in series. i would like to be able to know when there is any power feed to fan plus the state of the 2 switches

Project I would like to identify the state of 3 switches, sw 1, 2 & 3 and when power is supplied to a fan …… so 4 indicators – assume these would be LED. I.1 – I.4 Sketch is attached. The controller is self-contained controller providing Bluetooth, Wireless, time & temperature functions...

It was quality glue, and pressure on joints for 24 Hrs. So you may be right.

I was thinking dowels would help hold the 2 halves of handle together, if it won’t them I’ll not do it. I do make my own dough, several types of it. plus Nan bread, pitta bread etc.

I do t want to make handle thicker, thanks for suggestion.

Appreciate glue might not last that is why I want to reinforce with dowels. I'll have a think about ss nut & bolt, but not really the way I want to go - I want to keep as wood, and metal could get hot.

I use a wooden Pizza peel - birch ply - Does the job well, but handle is too small for comfort (for my size hands) I had some offcuts of 12 x 60 Ash , so cut a length glued on some short shoulders to give me a 'T' shape and routed out the shape of the existing handle and inset that and the...

I did try … but asked here in case somone has personal experience

While moving a very heavy frameless glass door, the corner got crunched on a tiled floor. So instead of arrised corner, it’s rounded off … The glass will close on top & side seals, so most of it is covered … but I should like to repair if only to keep seal as it should be. Anybody aware of...

Been badly let down by a tradesman Paid a deposit for 10mm toughened glass balustrade, the guy fitted end clamps & central post and never returned. So I have 4 clamps per piece of glass .... I can measure exact size between clamps, anybody know what tolerance I should allow .... for example on...

I have a 21mm PVC overflow pipe used to provide a condensate drain. when my boiler was replaced the guys ‘rotated’ pipe to add pipe insulation.. must have cracked/ stressed at the fitting and it has sheared off flush with the brick wall. To avoid chiseling away brick to use a standard coupler...

I have some machine screws I wish to replace - just not sure what they would be. It's off an American made item, so not metric ( and size conforms that) OD is 0.174" sort of assuming this is a 3/16" TPI is 24 Therefore my best guess is UNC #10-24 That seem right ?

A lot of description ….. thank you

Have a large panel … being used over a hot tub, which is 5mm Foamex sheet (pvc foam), with a glued on 70 x 16 softwood ‘frame/edge. Used a polyurethane glue, and also stapled through from Foamex onto wood. Just thinking if I should wrap the edges much like they do on double glazed units, to...

The pics were dug to confirm ground for foundations ... There is no where for water to go, it does eventually percolate Fownhope through the skag infill. Hence mb thoughts is I create a load of vertical drain tubes I can accelerate the percolation. 6" holes of even 8". Lined with terram tube...