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I had built walls leaving bricks ‘out’ where I wanted brick lights. I had originally purchased cast aluminium lights … but they corroded badly after only a short time (coastal area) https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/product-not-performing-as-required-bricklights.646826/ All stainless variants...

Thanks .. but I have E5 to hand so I use that .... it's no hardship tilting machine to empty tank, and then run to dry. I have no issue with starting, which is what you would get with stale fuel.

It is the GX25 engine, No the carburettor has priming bulb on the right side, but I don't know the make of it. Bulb is as picture in manual ....

I’ll try that suggestion. On my bench tonight, oil change, grease gearbox, cleaned air filter and spark arester.

Have a Mantis Tiller … (lightweight rotovator) Great bit of kit for creating fine tilth when incorporating compost etc. into Veg beds. It’s only an occasional use machine, after use I empty fuel and run carb until empty. The issue is each use it starts very easily….and idles happily, but when...

That would work for me ..... Thnx. 2nd part is anybody know of reasonably priced stainless or some form of composite LED floods ... this is a coastal area, and cast aluminium does not fair well in the salt atmosphere.

Could be a solution, did you use a cable compression gland coming out of the box ? .... can see the top of 'a' gland of some sort.

I have 4 flood lights, (non PIR) decent items at the time – die cast aluminium glass front. These particular units had a plastic wiring box at the back, and a standard female 20mm conduit thread. They were wired up using Electroflex flexible conduit … with Electroflex glands on either end – one...

I don't have an off-peak tariff. (may change in future, but unknown) Considering a battery to store excess Solar generation I'm not using during day, and simply using that when the panels not generating. Inverter is 3680 VA with max continuous discharge of 16A

I have an existing solar PV install ..... all working fine. As I had to change the Inverter due to failure, the new one (warranty) now has direct plug & play battery inputs, so considering adding a 10kWh battery. I attach the diagram of the current set-up, and of how I assume what would need to...

I did some Googling ..... the common thread seems to be that FIT is unaffected ... Generation payment. However it states that export payments will be based on actuals not a % deemed rate. This is still unclear as I have only a Generation meter ... I get paid for what I generate, not what I...

I can accept they have no new stock, bound to happen at some point, and procedures would not allow for reusing 'used' meters, plus probably fits drive for rollout of smart meters.

I kept saying no for years .. but they have now advised my existing meter is now out of service date, and needs to be replaced. They no longer have old meters so I have to have a Smart meter.

I have a PV array that works well, I get the FIT payments on all I generate. Plus I can use any of that for free. Octopus have advised my standard electricity usage meter is out of date, and I need to have a SMART meter installed. Would installing this impact my free PV ... or is that safe...

Job done - I went with piece of 32” x 12” x 3/4” WBP plywood I had spare. Framed all round with 1/2” x 3/4” softwood, and run a half round router round the top edge to make it a bit neater. Gave it 3 coats of Tung oil diluted with white spirit, then one coat neat .. finished, abd in use.

I have no idea what that means sorry, do you wish to explain.

The electrician added an advisory to swap out CU for a metal one. When I asked him to check, he then advised existing plastic CU’s are still OK. Planning to change it out when Tennant leaves as only advisory, could get bonding upgrade then.

probaly 6mm On EICR is does say it's 6mm and no comment about being undersize, or needing upgrading As advised here 10mm is required I'll get that upgraded to 10mm.

Interesting that there was a full EICC test & certificate last month, no mention of any bonding issue.

There were 2 pictures attached to the certificate - one entitled 'gas test' showing manometer, the other pic of the top of the boiler entitled 'as left'