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Depends if you want the honest ‘professional job’ answer, or the one you want to hear……. The first answer is :- just take them all off and do it properly. They’ve not been stuck properly, grouted properly, or siliconed properly. It’s a relatively quick, easy and cheap job to do - and you’ll...

Tbh it's personal preference. I prefer as big a tile as poss in the corner of a shower ( therefore keeping the grout away from the corner) so I would go for the 500 cut each side. But that was the easy part of the laying out - i know your heights are now set in stone as you have to tie the...

I would build piers, let them go off/dry out/move slightly, then put a concrete slab on top of each one and use this stage as your final ' levelling out'. Have your lengths of framing to hand when you're doing this. It's just a personal thing, and probably wrong, but I just wouldn't trust the...

There is no ' correct way' between going full tile off centre, or centre tile off centre. It's usually decided by what cuts are left at the ends. Perhaps if you showed us a photo of the ends of the runs, we would comment if we thought you made the right starting decision. And No, the 4 walls...

The main thing she was guilty of was "gross stupidity" in saying those things in the first place. She had to go guilty - a non guilty would have greatly increased her sentence, as she knew she had no chance if it went to trial. What do you reckon - interviews with her non stop on Farages GB...

Are you sure we're both talking solid Cement Boards here ? Screws don't go through Hardibacker easily, and you'll definitely not get a washer to recess into one. I've never seen or heard of a washer on a SOLID cement board

The point is, with a non pre-mix bucket adhesive, you can remove spacers and grout the same day you put the tiles on. You cannot do this with a prefix addy.

You missed the " later that day to grout" part of the sentence, which is the whole point.

Hi Wayners, and thanks for the reply. I googled that Coverstain, but the one I was looking at says touch dry in 30mins, and paintable after 2 hours ? Is this the right stuff ?

The build itself took me and the wife 3 1/2 hours, and an hour myself the next day for the roof. Being ' modular', every bit of roof, walls and floor was either a 4 ft panel or a 2ft panel, all cls and T&G. Doors, glass and Windows all came pre hung etc - so it really was just a case of...

6 mm Trowel is the man for the job. And do your fingers a favour by using Turbogold screws.

Yes. It HAS to be a socket as the whole head of the bolt is going into the wood; there will be nothing sticking out of the wood when finished. So remember the countersunk hole has to be slightly bigger than the outside diameter of your socket ' head'.

In MHO, as a tiler, there are two ways to change the colour of the tiles :- 1. Take them off and re-tile. 2. Cover them with some kind of ‘ wet wall’ plastic panels. These days you get some nice panels, some even have a tile pattern on them. ( there are fans of them on here who will be along...

You are right in all of the above. Another reason why we don’t use premix; if it has went on with a thick trowel ( or maybe even ‘padded out’ somewhere) there’s no way you can take them spacers out later that day ( sometimes even a day or 3) to grout. And not all Premix buckets are...

Exactly ! Years ago I did use Bal white star plus ( pre mixed bucket) on one of their training days. They spec that for Porcelain tiles, if memory serves only up to 300mm sq though.

It has its uses. Metros etc in a kitchen Splashback sure, no probs. But some of the cheaper ones aren’t waterproof/shower enc standard, and none will do 600 x 600 porcelain.

Ah, where to start……. Pre-mixed adhesive; so they’re small tiles then. Not the best for a first diy job. You’ll need two cutters, a manual for straight cuts, and an electric wet for ‘L’ cuts and shaving. You’ll need hole cutters for the shower mixer/tails. If you’re confident the walls are and...

Hi guys, I’m looking for a bit of advice on something I know very little about; painting an old garden boundary wall, 1950ish poured/cast concrete ‘coping’. I had the ( brick) wall itself re-dashed last year, and as an ‘extra’ the builders offered to paint the top as they worked…… Unfortunately...

I think the O.P. needs to take some grass and chill out.

I see two trains of thought to the o.p. :- Whilst thinking ' no, cos it's too heavy', surely ( for example) 10kg/m2 is the same for 1M as it is for 2 ? But you can't argue with my second reasoning - ' No, because the adhesive has already been used'. Therefore the SAME adhesive can't be used...