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A small 125mm grinder is all you need. Handy tip :- When you come to drilling all those holes for hanging all the bits and bobs, use these …. https://amzn.eu/d/0dNqm5Kt ( 6mm std Spade/Arrowhead drill bits. £9 for 10 ) You’ll only get 1, maybe 2 holes per drill, but they do get through...

As ‘blup’ above. Personally I would highly recommend the “Rubi” blades.

As ‘blip’ was hinting at, your 850 seems awfy high. The ‘standard’ from worktop to cabinet is usually around 450mm. Do you mean the Extractor cabinet ? Anyway, as ‘blup’ says - worktop, then upstand on, then Splashback sits on top of upstand. The ‘join/seam’ is usually under the...

+1 for ‘opps’ ideas above. After sanding, you could add neat SBR, to RapidSet adhesive and a couple of handfuls of sand to make a fast drying rough slurry that you paint on first. Warning - it’s messy and any tools used go in the bin !

Can you fit the worktop, then put a sheet of plasterboard on the wall above it ? If not, a competent tiler would get most half decent tiles ( not chamfered) to bridge a 1cm gap, including a silicone bead along the join to worktop. (Usually done by bridging the gap with the cardboard off the...

Your layout is correct. Those tiles do not need changed. Whilst not everyone’s personal choice of colour, it should be respected:- to suggest painting tiles halfway through a job is just ludicrous. As is suggesting getting the sockets to land on white tiles :- we have no idea how many...

It depends on how your tiles fit into the length of that untiled wall going left. It could be you start in the middle of that wall, ( which is normal) so that the two ends are the same size of tile. So, we don’t know the size of that tile going into the corner, but it’s deffo red. Then the rest...

You’re o.k. That left hand column just gets treated as a ‘ stand alone block’, and you’ve continued the front and sides of it to make the same ‘brick’. It just looks odd with the two colours, but it’s right.

Ignore the shower tray, that’s irrelevant- the wall is the wall P.s. I presume the centre of the widow ties in with toilet/ flush centres?

Without knowing how far the centre of the toilet flush differs from the true centre of the wall, it’s hard to say. I’d probably go the join down the centre of the flush.

And to top it all, you run the risk of poisoning and killing the bird’s with the chemical bonding you’re considering.

My concern would be the treated wood for the framing being joined together when wet, then it drying out and warping/shrinking after you've clad it. I've the opposite problem - I build a nice modular Summer house during this summer, and sealed and painted it while everything was dry. But over the...

IF they're 8 X 4 sheets of ply, you'll never get them lifted in one piece- they'll snap and splinter. It's hard to tell from your photo, but on zooming in on the bottom of it, I think your substrate is tile backer board ( maybe the thin insulated ones) and not wood. Regardless of what it is...

What Deluks said

I use a Marshalltown 4”scraper, sometimes a wide chisel bit in the sds drill. Either way, it’s a long hard graft !

I’m sure if you get in touch with V.P. you could just get a replacement front panel.

Yip, these are tile backer boards, and as 23vc says, will be stuck down with tile adhesive and screwed. They don't come tongue and grooved - will be straight edged. The substrate under that is ' likely' to be: for older houses tongue and grooved floorboards which will be at 90 deg to the...

I am also a ‘Bal’ grout man, and regularly use the same Screwfix N.N. Silicone. No, you cannot re-grout and silicone on the same day; the grout has to be dry and the tiles polished+haze free before you can Silicone. Around my way, some tilers, including myself, will not regrout Ceramic tiles...

+1

It looks like chipboard to me ?