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I remember the uproar a year or two ago when some Healthboards were advertising “ Corridor Care Nurse” vacancies. Was also surprised to see on the ‘Ambulance fly on the wall’ documentary the other night that after the Ambulance spent a couple of hours in the Que at the hospital waiting to admit...

It’s the British colours :)

I certainly wouldn’t be taking a grinder and diamond wheel around the top of my worktop and behind the taps. For one row, ( of lightweight ceramic tiles) only 6” high, if you must take some paint off, I’d just scratch it with a 6” piece of wood with a few screws put through it to make a ‘scratch...

Use the tile adhesive for the plasterboard Use a grab adhesive for the laminate Ensure you leave the spacers in for long enough for it cure/ dry before removing them.

Now as a tiler, I would normally never support such an unprofessional act as using tile adhesive as normal on the skimmed wall, and use “ sticks like sh*t ” ( other grab adhesives are available. :-) ) on the back of the tiles that are landing on the end panels ;-)

I would go for the small gaps between the boards and joins. If the wood expands, and the joints are tight, then it just HAS to twist somewhere, no matter what way you make the joints.

Tbh I don’t know if it ‘dies down’. I do know it’s a problem especially prevalent with I.S., and the couple of times I’ve laid it I’ve always slurried the back the first. The front also needs treating, or you’ll be forever trying to clean the green algae off it that always seem to grow on it...

Is it newly laid? Maybe without the slurry coat being put on the back of it to stop it sucking the water out the mortar?

Why don’t you up the screw length to 100mm screws? That’ll give you somewhere to hang your coat in the adjacent room :)

Do NOT use premixed adhesive for a floor; Premix adhesive is air cured, that’s why there’s a tight lid on the bucket- the stuff in there will never go hard. Now when you tile a floor, with a nice big ( minimum) 10mm notch trowel, and maybe ‘back butter’ the tile first, once you have fixed it...

With the planning that goes into a high profile arrest such as this, I'm surprised we're not hearing more about who authorised the arrests. This person should have had the statements necessary BEFORE the arrests were made. Those 2 guys have a good case for wrongful arrest - if there's no '...

Very interested to see an update from @OxfordBlue26 ( O.P. In January)

It might be your mobile payment plan. If you have a ' fixed payment amount ' contract ( e.g. £5.00 per month Lebara etc) it will have unlimited minutes, but it won't let you phone or text premium numbers, and some 0800 numbets.

I'd give it a go with your adhesive, but as Alastair says, tape it first. I've done similar to this with rapidset tile adhesive a couple of times. ;) You're wallpapering it, then sticking a radiator over the top of that : it'll be fine !

Here's a controversial idea :- Why not go for 4 tiles on the bottom until it reaches the cupboards ? That way your 3rd row will be an 'L' each side, and the trim will be clearly defined as it'll be 150 mm in/overlap from each cupboard ? It makes it a better looking shape as well imo

Yip, good idea to pilot hole it first. As it’s a very heavy 1800x 600 column rad I would also consider asking for the ( optional) floor supporting brackets ( feet ) instead of the bottom wall mounted ones.

I think we can guess (hope?) the name of the driver of this ?

lol

The Manrose mentioned above is good for the job, but it’s there to move the damp air out, and replace this void with dry air, keeping your walls etc free from moisture. To do this it needs a good supply of fresh air, hence the gap under the door; it is pretty important.

Hi Leftum, To a certain extent your answer depends on two main things :- how long/many jobs do you intend using it for, and what size (length)of tiles you are cutting. Most pro tilers argue between ‘Sigma’ or ‘Ruby’ ( I’m a ‘Sigma’ man myself) but these are designed for a long hard life and are...